Monday, 22 July 2019

Arulmigu Kalugasalamoorthy Temple / Subramaniar Temple, Kalugumalai, Thoothukudi District, Tamil Nadu.

30th June 2019
It was planned to visit Kalugumalai after attending a friend’s daughter's marriage at Tuticorin on 30th June 2019. It was around 14.30 Hrs when I landed at Kalugumalai and this temple was found closed for Uchi Kala Pooja it was told that the temple would be opened around 16.30 Hrs. Even though I had been to Kalugumalai when I was in Thoothukudi,  this time want to visit from a heritage point of view. At Kalugumalai I was fortunate to Join the Ramanathapuram Archaeological Research Foundation's Heritage walk, organized by Mr Rajaguru. After visiting the Vettuvan Koil and Jain’s monument, returned back to Sri Kalugasala Moorthy Temple for darshan.


Kalugumalai has the Vettuvan Koil, Jain monuments and Sri Kalugasalamoorthy temple Heritage sites. The details of  Sri Kalugasalamoorthy (Sri Subramaniya Swamy) Temple are being written in this post and the Jain monument will be in the next post. Arunagirinathar has sung hymns in praise of Sri Subramaniya Swamy of this temple.

Moolavar : Arulmigu Kalugasalamoorthy
Consorts : Sri Valli & Devasena

Some of the important features of this temple are…
The temple faces the Southwest Direction ie Pothigai malai of India’s Western Ghats. The 40-pillar mandapa is in front of the sanctum sanctorum. The pillars have various reliefs. It was told this mandapa was extended during the 18th Century. A Rudraksha Pandal and 12 Rasi panel is on the ceiling of the mukamandapa.

Balipeda, Dwajasthambam and Peacock vahana are in a mandapa after the mukamandapa, in front of the sanctum. The sanctum is a excavated cave, belonging to the 8th Century by Pandyas. Moolavar Sri Kalugasalamoorthy is called Subramaniyar with a single face and 6 hands. The peacock is facing the left side against the usual position of the right side. His consorts Sri Valli Devasena are on both sides in worshiping moolavar Sri Subramaniar posture.

In prahara, Bhairavar is without a dog, also called Vaduga Bhairavar, Navagrahas, Chandran, Suryan, Natarajar, Urchavars (Urchavars are Chandrasekar, Bickshadanar/Pichadanar, Vinayagar, Somaskandar and Ambal), Arumuga Nainar and 63 var.

Sri Jambu Lingeswarar is in a separate temple like sannadhi with sanctum sanctorum, antarala, and artha mandapam. Ambal Sri Akilandeswari is in a separate sannadhi. In koshtam Dakshinamurthy, Narasimhamurthy, Indiran, and Brahma. 
 
 Rudraksha pandal 
  Rasi mandala

HISTORY AND INSCRIPTIONS:
It was believed that this rock-cut cave temple of Sri Kalugasalamoorthy shrine was excavated during the 8th Century by Pandyan Maran Chadaiyan Varaguna-I. In the same inscription, Parantaka Nedunchezhian and Parantaka Veera Narayanan's names are also mentioned. As per the inscriptions, this Big Village Kalugumalai was called Perunecuram, and the hill was called Araimalai. Araimalai was in Necuranadu in the sub-division of Mudikonda Cholavalanadu of Rajaraja Pandya Nadu.

The hill with this temple was under the control of Ettayapuram Zamindars till 1954 ( appointed by Madurai Nayaks ) ie till the abolition of the Zamindars system. The Ettayapuram Raja gifted this Village to this temple Arulmigu Kalugasalamoorthy and formed 5 streets around the temple for the temple chariot procession. And the middle street was allotted as agrahara. A Representative is still holding the permanent membership of the Temple's Trust. 

Apart from regular poojas, annual festivals like 9 days of Kandhar Sashti, 10 days of Thaipoosam, and 13 days of Panguni Uthiram are celebrated in a grand manner.  Arunagirinathar has sung 3 Thiruppukazh on Sri Kalugasala Moorthy of this temple.


LEGENDS
The epic Ramayana character Jatayu’s brother Sampati's curse was relieved after worshiping Lord Subramaniar of this temple and hence he is called Kalugasalamoorthy.  Sri Murugan went to Thiruchendur for Demon Surapadman samharam after his Pattabhishekam/coronation from Kalugumalai. Indira in the form of Peacock vahana to Sri Subramaniar. Sri Muruga Perumal in this temple is Sevvai -(a Mangalam/auspices), hence this place is called Guru Mangala Kshethram.

POOJAS AND CELEBRATIONS
Apart from regular Poojas, Two palliyarai/arthajama poojas are conducted every day one at Sri Kalugasalamurthy Temple and the other at Shiva Temple. 

CONTACT DETAILS:
The landline number of the temple is 04632 251225, 04632 251500 and the mobile number of EO Mr Kartheeswaran may be contacted for further details.

HOW TO REACH:
The place Kalugumalai is on the Kovilpatti to Sankarankovil bus route. All the buses will stop at Kalugasalamoorthy Temple Bus from there the Vettuvan Koil is about a km away.
Kalugumalai is about 22 km from Kovilpatti, 105 km from Thoothukudi and 70 km from Tirunelveli.
The nearest railway station is Kovilpatti.

LOCATION: OF THE TEMPLE  CLICK HERE

 Temple tank with Neerazhi mandapa
  Urchava mandapa
 Rainwater harvesting and let down into the temple tank
    Mandapa Pillar reliefs - center a stone ball in Simha's mouth 
A Design on the Stone Elephant
---OM SHIVAYA NAMA---

Sunday, 21 July 2019

Jain Tirthankaras and Jain monastery, Kalugumalai at Thoothukudi District, Tamil Nadu,

30th June 2019.
It was planned to visit Kalugumalai after attending a friend’s daughter's marriage at Thoothukudi on 30th June 2019. It was around 14.30 Hrs when I landed at Kalugumalai and the Kalugachalamurthy temple was found closed for Uchi Kala Pooja it was told that the temple would be opened around 16.30 Hrs. Even though I had been to Kalugumalai when I was in Thoothukudi,  this time want to visit from a heritage point of view. At Kalugumalai I was fortunate to Join the Ramanathapuram Archaeological Research Foundation's Heritage walk, organized by Mr Rajaguru. After visiting the Vettuvan Koil,  trekked up to this Jain’s monument,  steps are provided from the base of the Hill. The Monument is being maintained by the Tamil Nadu State Archaeological Department.
  

HISTORY AND INSCRIPTIONS
This monument was carved during the 8th Century by Pandya King Parantaka Nedunchadaiyan (768- 800 CE). A Jain School, a monastery,  and a Temple functioned in this Kalugumalai during the 8th Century. There are about 120 odd Tirthankara bas-reliefs carved in regular order. These Tirthankaras are carved in memory of the deceased Jain monks (Kuravar), disciples,  Fathers, Mothers, Sons, daughters, etc. The contributors' names are inscribed below the reliefs in 8th Century Tamil vattezhuthu. 

From the inscriptions, the monks are called Kuravars, and the females are called Kuravadikal.  The bas-reliefs are done by the persons who hold the titles of Etti, Enathi, Kavithi, etc. The Jains of the social higher order from about 32 nearby Villages, which include Kottaru, Mizhalur, and Venbaikudi are responsible for the engraving of these reliefs. The people from various communities like Carpenters, Sthapathis, and Velans, who carry out the agriculture, pot makers, and Smiths also lived in the hill area. 

The details of some of the inscriptions are given below...

Inscription No. 74, records that the image was caused to be made by Marampulli of Tirunechchuram. It also states that the required ghee for lighting a lamp in front of the image was supplied by Kiluran Rottan (or Rottan of Kilur).

Inscription No 89, ( ARE 54/1894, SII Vol V No 343 ), The last portion of this inscription is obliterated very much but seems to record a gift of 1/4 pon, probably for lighting two lamps before the image. 

Inscription No 103 records that the stone pillar was erected by Sundaran, the stone-mason of Nechcharanadu, at the instance of Bhattara who was conducting regular worship ( tiruppani ) to the Deity Araimalai Alvar Tirunechchuram. (ARE 68/1894, SII Vol. V No 357). The presiding deity at Kalugumalai is referred to in the epigraph as Araimalai Alvar. The Hillock of this place bore the name Araimalai.

Inscription no 107, records some endowment made for the daily abhisheka and offerings to the deity, Araimalai Alvar, by Silankavidiyan- tennavan. Besides, it also records the erection of a pillar in the same place by Perungovelan of Tirunechchuram. 

Inscription No 153, in Tamil vattezhuthu on a rock, belongs to Pandya King Ko Maranjadaiyan (Varaguna -II),  3rd reign year (865 CE), records the construction of a well and the gift of some land for providing food to the ten Bhatarar expounding Siddhanta and Vairagiyar (monks) in the Tirumalai temple at Tirunechchuram by Siddhan of the Village at Kadantaikudi situated in Nallurtumbur KuRRam. The gift was entrusted to Gunasaharabhatara of Tirunechchuram. The Epigraph also refers to the names of some persons, probably connected with the endowment.

Inscription No 154, a fragmentary in Tamil vattezhuthu on a rock belongs to Pandya King Ko Maranjadaiyan ( Varaguna -II ),  3rd reign year ( 865 CE ), records some endowment to the deity known as Tirumalaidevar at Tirunechchuram by one Mahadevan, a resident of the Village Perunavalur, situated in Nallur- MilalaikuRRam, for feeding five Vairagiyar ( monks ) and Bhatarar who expounded Siddhanta in the temple. The endowment was entrusted to Gunasaharabhatarar of Tirunechchuram, who was probably the Chief among the monks looking after the Jaina establishments at Kalugumalai. 

It is interesting to observe that the Jaina ascetics were also called Vairagis. The monks are said to have expounded Siddhanta ( Jaina Philosophy ), probably to the laity. The Jaina establishments at Kalugumalai had been looked after by Gunasaharabhatara, the Chief among the monks.

The inscription No 155, a Tamil vattezhuthu, 9th to 10th Century character, on a stone slab lying near Aiyanar Temple, records the Sattankali of Kalakkudi Mangalattuchcheri gifted 25 sheep for burning two perpetual lamps to the god, Bhatara, on the hill at Tirunechchuram. His disciple (adiyar) also gave 25 sheep for burning a perpetual lamp in the temple.  The presiding deity is called "Tirumalaimel Bhatarar", in this record.      

Ref:
1. Jaina inscriptions of Tamil Nadu (A Topographical List), by Dr. A Ekambaranathan Department of Ancient History and Archaeology, University of Madras & Dr CK Sivaprakasam Department of History, AVVM Sri Pushpham College, Poondi, Thanjavur. 

2. South Indian Inscriptions Volume-V.



ARCHITECTURE
The bas reliefs consist of individual Tirthankaras and Panels. (The panels consist of Tirthankara, Yakshan, Yakshi, Samaratharis, and mukkudai) are for Mahavir, Ambika Yakshi, Parshvanath, and Bahubali with his sisters and Padmavathy.

 Mahavir Tirthankara 
 Padmavathy Yakshi
 Ambika Yakshi
HOW TO REACH:
The place Kalugumalai is on the Kovilpatti to Sankarankovil bus route. All the buses will stop at Kalugasalamorrthy Bus stop from there this Jain monument is about a km.
Kalugumalai is about 22 km from Kovilpatti, 105 km from Thoothukudi and 70 km from Tirunelveli.
The nearest railway station is Kovilpatti.

LOCATION OF THE JAIN TIRTHANKARAS HILL: CLICK HERE







 Mahavir
 Mahavir
 Parshvanath
 Bahibali with his sisters
---OM SHIVAYA NAMA---

Saturday, 20 July 2019

Vettuvan Koil /வெட்டுவான் கோயில், Kalugumalai / கழுகுமலை, Thoothukudi District, Tamil Nadu.

30th June 2019.
I was planning to attend a marriage on 30 June 2019 in Thoothukudi, where I have worked for more than a quarter century. Taking this opportunity, I decided to visit Kalugumalai. Although I had visited Kalugumalai when I was in Thoothukudi, this time, I wanted to visit from a heritage point of view. At Kalugumalai, I was fortunate to Join the Ramanathapuram Archaeological Research Foundation's Heritage Walk, organized by Mr Rajaguru.

From the inscriptions, the Big Village Kalugumalai was called Peruneccuram, and the hill was called Araimalai. Araimalai was in Neccuranadu in the sub-division of Mudi Konda Cholavalanadu of Rajaraja Pandi Nadu. Kalugumalai has the Vettuvan Koil, Jain monuments and Sri Kalugasalamoorthy temple Heritage sites. The details of Vettuvan Koil are being written in this post and the rest will be in the subsequent posts.


According to the inscriptions,, the Vettuvan Koil was excavated in the the 8th Century during the Pandyan Maran Chadaiyan Varaguna-I. The inscription also mentions the Pandya Kings Parantaka Nedunchezian and Parantaka Veera Narayanan. The Vettuvan Koil is unfinished, yet its beauty is uncomparable to that of any other Temple. Unlike the stone temples,, this Vettuvan Koil was excavated on the east side of the Kalugumalai to a depth of 7.5 Meters from top to bottom.

Miruthanka Dhakshinamurthy
Narasimha
Brahma

The Koil consists of a sanctum Sanctorum and an artha mandapa. A recent period Installed Vinayagar is in the sanctum Sanctorum. Outside the sanctum wall with adhisthana is not completed. The Koil starts with prastaram. The prastaram is of  kapotha style with Karnakood with niches. The Vimana is of two tiers. The second tier starts with Yazhivari. Nandhi / Rishaba are in the 2nd tier on all 4 corners. The Kapotha on both tiers are with Kodikarukku and maiya karukku.  In front of Nasi koodu Various deities are carved. They include Dakshinamurthy playing Mridangam (a unique feature of this Koil / Temple), Brahma, Vishnu, Narasimhar, Uma Maheswara, Apsaras, Devas, etc. 


The Bhootha ganas are extraordinary sculptures. Each is unique in style, reaction, and facial expression. Some play musical instruments, some with snakes, and some play with each other by pulling their heads and ears. Some wear accessories and beards. Some eat, some laugh, and some cry with big mustaches. Bhoothaganas include ladies, too.





The Sikaram is of 8 face carved with karukku and Mahanasi. The Top of the Sikaram consists of Padmam and Kannadhi chattam. The stupi is missing.

The Temple / Koil architecture is a little different from the Pallava architecture. By seeing the sculptures of this Temple, it may be concluded that this may not be possible by an ordinary sculptor and he might have possessed an extraordinary talent.  There are two legends associated with this temple named Vettuvan Koil. The Vettuvan Koil is under the care of the Tamil Nadu Archaeological Department.


LEGEND 
A sculptor father and son went to a temple festival and the son got missed there in the crowd. The lone father came back and started doing the Jain sculptures. After some years, the Son, who possessed his father’s qualities started this temple. On seeing this the people told the father about the talent of the young sculptor. The  father got angry and threw his chisel, which cut the young Sculptor and died. On seeing  this the young sculptor, the Old Sculptor recognizes his son wept. Hence this Koil was called Vettuvan Koil.

HOW TO REACH:
The place Kalugumalai is on the Kovilpatti to Sankarankovil bus route. All the buses will stop at Kalugasalamoorthy Temple Bus stop from there the Vettuvan Koil is about a KM.
Kalugumalai is about 22 KM from Kovilpatti, 105 KM from Thoothukudi and 70 KM from Tirunelveli.
The nearest railway station is Kovilpatti.

LOCATION OF THE TEMPLE: CLICK HERE



Kodi karukku


Uma Maheswara



Vishnu

 
The following Photos are taken on 2nd December 2023 Visit to this temple 









































---OM SHIVAYA NAMA---