Kedarnath / Kedarnath and Badrinath Yatra - MY EXPERIENCE

 22, June 2013

Since I had completed the 271 out of 276 Paadal Petra Shiva Sthalangal darshan, thought of covering the balance 3 temples of Vada Nadu (North India )( KEDARNATH, INDRA NEELA PARVATHAM AND ANEGATHANGAVATHAM ) through some Travel agencies. I came to know that Supper Yathra Agencies, based at Kumbakonam are arranging this type of Yathra. ( Yamunotri, Gangotri, Badrinath and Kedarnath – These places are called as CHAR DHAM by Uttarakhand State Government. )  They had charged Rs 18,000 for Transport, food and accommodation.  Joined with them on 04^th June 2013 from Chennai. I had not prepared much in advance for this Yathra like Kailash Yatra. 

DAY -1 04-06-06-2013, TUESDAY.

We 62 members of various parts of Tamil Nadu with 6 cooks and 2 managers started our Yatra from Chennai through Tamil Nadu Express  to New Delhi. Around 22 Hrs.

DAY 2, 05-06-2013, WEDNESDAY.

The day  was spent completely in Train. The temperature was too hot. The train crosses Andhra Pradesh, Maharashtra and Madhya Pradesh. There is no rain and the trees are found dry in Andhra Pradesh area. When the train passes  through the forest of Madhya pradesh we could see some green. The train crossed 7 tunnels on the way. It was pleasant to  see the orange trees on both sides of track after Nagpur. 

DAY – 3, 06-06- 2013, THURSDAY.

ON reaching New Delhi, the day’s plan was to see Akshardham and proceed to Rishikesh. The train arrived New Delhi late by 2 Hours. After visiting Akshardham we proceeded to Rishikesh. On the way there was a dust storm which I had never experienced in my life time. Then it was raining heavily with wind. Most of the sign boards were uprooted and fallen down on the road. At one place one of the eucalyptus  tree branch was fallen on a maruti wagon R car, which was damaged very heavily. Luckily nobody was hurt in the car.  When the rain began the ladies started chanting the OM NAMASIVAYA Manthiram and the rain stopped, incidentally the day was a pradosham day.

DAY – 4,  07-06-2013, FRIDAY.

We had spent the whole day in Rishikesh. We went to other side of river Bhagirathi through Laxman Jhula  bridge. Had a dip in the river and water was too cold with mud. The water current was also too high. Went for the darshan of Lakshmi Narayan.   We had seen more than 600 years old Athi and Aal and Arasa maram (Peepal Tree ) which belongs to Lord, Shiva, Brahma and Vishnu in side Lakshmi Narayan Temple premises.There was a formation of Ganapathy in the arasa maram which was very attractive. Also had the darshan of Lord Shiva on the banks of river.

  

In the evening we had been to Sri Venkateswara Swamy and Sri Chandramouleeswarar temples constructed and managed by Tirupathi Thirumala Devasthanam.

Laxman Jhula - Bridge

Our group ladies

Achi ( Sister of Mr Nachiappan who is working  with Green Star Fertilizers )  is doing pooja to River Ganga

Formation of Ganapathy in Arasa maram

Shiva Temple on the banks of river Bhagirathi

Shiva temple on the banks of river Ganga (( Actually Bakirathy )

Moolavar vimanam of Shiva Temple maintained by Thirupathi Thirumala Devasthanam

Sri Venkateswara Swamy Temple maintained by T T D

Raja gopuram of the shiva Temple 

DAY – 5, 08-06-2013. SATURDAY.

We had spent the whole day in the bus to reach the Ranachatti, which is about ½ hour journey before Yamunotri. The journey was too tough and the road was too bad ( Almost all the Ghat roads which we crossed are too bad. )

DAY – 6, 09-06-2013, SUNDAY.

Today’s plan was to go to Yamunotri, Which is the starting point of River YAMUNA. We were dropped at the base of the hill and Yamunotri is 7 KM from base. Even though I would like to walk, due to non availability of time I had taken a horse which charged me Rs 1000. After taking hot water bath we had the darshan of Yamunotri. On return I came by walk  which took me 1.5 Hrs. Up to top the steps were constructed and the width is small. Walkers has to negotiate with the up coming, on going horses and dolly.

YAMUNOTRI

Yamunotri Main temple

View of Himalayan hills from Yamunotri

Pilgrims crossing the river Yamuna

A Sadhu is performing a pooja

( People also transported through this type of dolly also)

DAY – 7. 10-06-2013, MONDAY

We had spent most of our time in the bus to reach UTTARKASHI. Evening we had been to Kasi Viswanathar Temple  ( Sri Vinayagar, Sakshi Gopal, Markandeyar Lingam are in the temple complex ) and a Kali temple on the banks of river Bhagirathi.  The flow of the river was very much threading.

DAY – 8, 11-06-2013, TUESDAY.

To day’s plan is to visit Gangotri Temple which is the starting point of River Ganga (actually  Bhagirathi after joining with Mandakini river called as River Ganga from Haridwar ) The bus went near the temple ( About 2 KM ). On the way we had the hot water bath at GANGNANI otherwise called as Viyasarkund. There was a long Qqqqq for the dharshan. It took us almost 2 hours  for the dharshan. There are  separate sannadhis for Shiva and Ganapathy  with siddhi and buddhi.

GANGOTRI

View of Gangothri main temple

Mr Raju, his wife and Achi

UTTARKASHI

Moolavar vimanam of Uthira Kasi Sri Viswanathar temple

Ambal temple

Front view of main shrine

Abhishekam water of the moolavar  is falling on the Lingam through Nandhi's mouth.

Natural pillayar without chiseled

Hanuman Temple

Kali Temple

A rajasthan private kali temple and the the lingams are installed in a row 

DAY – 9, 12-06-2013, WEDNESDAY

There was a change in the original program. Since there was a strike by the horse  and dolly owners against bringing of pilgrims through helicopter for 3 days. Hence we had changed our route to BADRINATH. We had stayed at Pipilkot, There was a heavy rain at Pipilkot during night time with thunder and lightning.  On the way we had the problem of bus tire puncture.

DAY – 10, 13-06-2013, THURSDAY

Since there was  systematic allotment of buses to climb, we started little earlier. On the way we had the darshan of Sri Narasimhar, which is one of the 108 mangala sasanam petra  Vishnu sthalams at JOSHIMATH. From Joshimath our guide had shown me the back side of Indira neela Parvatham (Ie. the hill opposite to Sri Badrinath Temple ).

JOSHIMATH

This part of this post was separated and written as a separate post with more details under 108 Divya Desams. Please click this link for the updated post. 

Sri Narasimha Perumal Temple - one of the 108 Vaishnava temples at Joshimath

View of the himalayan mountain from Joshimath 

BADRINATH

There was a long q for ( about 1.5 Km ) for darshan of Lord Sri Badrinarayanan. It took us nearly 2 1/2 hours for the dharshan. There are sannadhi for Anjenear and  Mahalakshmi. The temple construction is the combination of both South Indian and North Indian architecture with dwarapalakas and bas reliefs on the pillars in the inner mandapam. From the history the temple was constructed constructed by Adi Shankaracharya  and Still the pooja is conducted by the Namboothiris  are from Kerala.

The hill on the opposite side of the Badrinath Temple is called as INDRANEELA PARVATHAM We  could see the difference in colour compared to other hills during day time also ( It will be in blue colour during early morning ).  It was believed that Indran had worshiped this hill as Lord Shiva.

This part of this post was separated and written as a separate post with more details under 108 Divya Desams. Please click this link for the updated post. 

 

An ice covered mountain at the back of  Shri Badrinath temple

Shri Badrinath Temple 

DAY – 11, 14-06-2013, FRIDAY.

To day’s plan is to reach & stay at Rambara  about 6 KM from Gaurikund, the base of KEDARNATH.  We had stayed at Hotel Nava Durga at SitaPur very near to Rambara.  We three Mr Sridhar of PNB, T. Nagar and Mr Rajendran LIC from Mayavaram want to go to Kedarnath by walk. It was a 14 KM one way to up hill. So we started around 14 Hrs from  lodge, but able to reach around 19.00 hours to GAURIKUND due to Traffic jam. The GAURIKUND the  base of the hill is also a Paadal Petra Shiva Sthalam.   After taking hot water bath in Gaurikund started our trekking around 19.45 Hrs ( Even though GAURIKUND is a Paadal Petra Shiva sthalam and we could not find a separate Shiva Temple there.) 

The path was too wide and  smooth with steps. Street lights were ON. While we are going up the horses are returning  after the days hard work. Very few people  (about 20 )  undertook the climbing in the night. After two hours of trekking the rain started. The 10 Rupees rain coat gave way to water and shirt become very wet, With rain and night chillness hands started shivering. No shops were kept open for Tea. There was no shelter on the way and there is no sign of rain to stop. Due to rain water the path became too slippery and found difficult to proceed further.

DAY – 12, 15-06-2013, SATURDAY.

We could take a rest of about 5 minutes in a shelter and continued our trekking. Mr Rajendran exhausted and he could not match our speed. At the final leg he climbed to the shrine with hands on my shoulder. It was 03.45, when we reached the Shrine of Lord Sri Kedarnath. Joined in the q for the dharshan and came out of temple premises around 07.30 Hrs. Still it was drizzling and some times raining.

It was believed that the Kedarnath temple was built by Pandavas. Moorthams of Pandavar is installed in the inner prakaram. The temple was reconstructed by Aadhi Sankarar. It was also believed that Adi Shankarar was last seen in the valley of Kedarnath.

Then we went to Jeeva Samadhi of Adi Shankara and had the opportunity of doing abhishekam to a Lingam there along with the priests. In the mean time Mr Rajendran complained pain  on both sides of stomach below the chest.  We rushed to a doctor and  had the medicine. He was sent to down hill through a dolly. On return self and Mr Sridhar alone climbed down. On the way while we are climbing down  our co yathris are going up for the dharshan. At that time there was no rain. By 12.30 Hrs we reached the Gaurikund  and all the three reached lodge around 16.00 Hrs.  All the Co Yathris returned to lodge safely around 00.30 Hrs and there was a heavy rain throughout the night. Early morning we happened  to watch the river flowing with mud and slush and also boulders are rolling down from the road side towards river

KEDARNATH

Moolavar vimanam of Sri Kedarnath temple

Mandapam view

Front view of Sri Kedarnath Temple

Rishabam in front of Main temple

Self and Mr Sridhar - Both climbed the hill ( 14 Km ) by walk.

Ice covered mountains - back side of Kedarnath Temple 

PC - Web site 

 Same moolavar vimanam after the disaster- No compound wall on the back, no railings, no shops in front, front steps are not visible, q complex is completely washed out, do not know the fate of Adi Sankara's jeeva samadhi.

 

INDRANEELA PARVATHAM

The back side view of Indraneela Parvatham from Joshimuth.

Indraneela Parvatham - opposite to Sri Badrinath Temple

 Indraneela Parvatham - opposite to Sri Badrinath Temple

Indraneela Parvatham - opposite to Sri Badrinath Temple

Indraneela Parvatham - opposite to Sri Badrinath Temple

Indraneela Parvatham - opposite to Sri Badrinath Temple 

Indraneela Parvatham - opposite to Sri Badrinath Temple 

Indraneela Parvatham - opposite to Sri Badrinath Temple 

ANEGATHANGAPATHAM ( GAURIKUND )

Hot water is falling from the mouth of Nandhi at Gaurikund 

DAY – 13, 16-06-2013, SUNDAY.

We are supposed to start to Haridwar to day. Already there was a long traffic jam in front of our Lodge. As planned we had vacated the lodge and boarded in the bus. The bus moved to about 300 meters and stopped. Land slide occurred few meters from back of our vehicle and the vehicles are caught in between so that we cannot move front or back.  It was raining since night. We could hear a loud sound of flowing water in the river like a jet engine. We parked our three buses in a safe place and waiting for the  front vehicles to move. We do not know the disaster happened in the GAURIKUND and KEDARNATH ( KEDARNATH ). There was no communication and all the cell phone towers were down. We stayed 3 days and 2 nights in the bus. Still it was raining.

DAY – 14, 17-06-2013, MONDAY.

Hopping for some sign of relief today. But still raining, Understand that the traffic was hit due a road washed away by the rain and it will be rectified soon, ( How soon, god only knows.) Also the rectification of the road could be done only if the rain stops.  Evening the rain stopped and moon appeared in the sky, with a hope  to move from there.

DAY – 15, 18-06-2013, TUESDAY.

There was no rain to day and we are able to see the moon in the sky and also we  do not know the disaster happened at Kedarnath and Gaurikund. Understand that the road repair will take another day or two. So we got down from the bus and went the old same lodge. They increased the tariff which we paid. We could stay in the lodge for about 3 hours to stretch our legs. The traffic started moving. So we vacated our lodge and boarded in the bus. The prices of the commodities were shoot up by three to four times by a shop owner and the shop was closed next day due to stock out. Peoples has to wait to 1/2 hour for tea.  ( Only one shop was available near our parking place ).

After we traveled for about 10 KM the bus once again stopped. This time we understand that the road after PATA was completely washed away. The bulldozer does not have the diesel to run. They borrowed the diesel from the  stranded vehicles. Again we had spent one more night and a day in the bus.  Our Yathra services able to provide us food at least two times a day. They got a gas cylinder for about Rs 4000 and vegetables from Rs 150 to 200 per  Kilo from the town PATA. We could not get the drinking water.  Most of us  used the Aruvi ( Falls ) water to drink. It was 5^th day that nobody had taken bath or never had a good sleep. The Mobiles are silent for the consecutive 4th day.

It was worse for the passengers who came by cars without preparation. It was pathetic scene to see the people roaming for food, some even begged.

DAY – 16, 19-06-2013, WEDNESDAY.

We expect some good news today. The  helicopters are busy in flying. We thought it is transporting pilgrims to the top of the hill. ( After crossing the PATA,  we are shocked to see that the helicopters are busy in bringing the dead bodies of the  pilgrims), We continued our journey after 14.00 Hrs. The washed out road immediately after PATA was diverted through a temporary road formed and the traffic was allowed to proceed further.

On reaching GUPTAKASHI, to our bad luck 20 seater buses were not allowed to proceed further. ( May be allowed on Thursday ), Accommodated in a lodge  and the amount was paid by us. Spent our night hoping some good news at least next day.

DAY – 17, 20-06-2013, THURSDAY.

At the dawn of the day BSNL towers started functioning after a gap of 5 days. We informed our relatives of  our whereabouts.  There was an emotional moment at that time. Everybody were weeping over the phone. It was a heart touching moment to see.  The disaster happened at Kedarnath and Gaurikund are known to us only from the relatives, which were telecasted through TV channels.

We had received the good news of proceeding further  through the same vehicle. At 10.00 hrs we had started our journey, but we are diverted through  ghat route to Rishikesh, by passing Joshimath, Uttarkashi, Devapryagai. ( After reaching to Rishikesh we understand the regular route was damaged very heavily.  We had seen land slips occurred in many places  and small bridges were washed away.

At one place the Yathris were asked to get down from the bus to cross the alternate road laid.  On the way we could see the NDTV and TV 18 people proceed to the spots with National Disaster relief force ( NDRF ). The relief personnel are rushing after 4 days of disaster on road. On the way in one village the people offered cool drinks, Tea and Food. When we crossed the Tehri Dam site they offered food to the Yathris. At last 00.30 Hrs we  reached Rishikesh and stayed at the same Chatram, where we left our unwanted luggage. We understand that the bus services  from Rishikesh to New Delhi via Haridwar will resume only from Friday.  

Now the problem of reaching Chennai popped out. Since we had missed both the reserved trains from Haridwar and New Deli, we are very much worried how to proceed further to Chennai from New Delhi. Also we have  received the good news of  arrangement has been made to shift  pilgrims from New Delhi to Chennai by flight, Through Tamil Nadu Government and GO was issued by Chief Minister J Jayalalitha through our relatives who were watching TVs.

DAY – 18, 21-06-2013, FRIDAY.

Started from Rishikesh to New Delhi by Bus around 07.30 Hrs and reached New Delhi around 14.15 Hrs. We were provided with lunch, dinner and accommodation in TAMIL NADU ILLAM. A team of 3 medical Doctors attended us and gave medicines. We could not express our feelings. Thanks to TAMIL Nadu Government and the officials at New Delhi, for taking care of us. I  had fever at that night and the same subsidized in the morning.

DAY – 19, 22-06-2013, SATURDAY

Again we have received the good news of sending us to Chennai though flight. Out of 70 peoples of our group, 41 were send through 06.00 Hrs flight and we 29 were accommodated in the AIR India Flight 492 at 10.00 Hrs. We have landed Chennai around 13.15 Hrs and once again we were provided with lunch. Tamil Nadu Government had made elaborate arrangements to send the balance pilgrims to their native places.

After reaching Chennai I could not recovered immediately from the shock which I felt  / problems which I faced and experienced during this Yathra. I felt Chennai was strange to me. When I go to sleep, I felt that still I am sleeping in the bus and the ghat roads and Himalayan hills were came in my dream. Hope to recover soon.

HIMALAYAN TSUNAMI

Sunset - during Travel in train

Land slip

The flooded river of Baakirathy

Heavy flow in Baakirathy river

People are waiting to remove the boulder fallen on the road.

Clouds are covering the mountains - rain may start at any time once again.

Tehri Dam

Land slip on the way

Land slip on the way

Land slip on the way

Land slip on the way

Alternate road was laid  by using  JCB and bulldozers at PATA

Helicopters are busy in the relief works

The helipad also damaged due to rain

                                                     The helipad also damaged due to rain 

                                                               Land slip on the way

Land slip on the way

Land slip on the way

Land slip on the way

Land slip on the way

Pilgrims are crossing the damaged road and only bus without passengers are allowed to cross

Pilgrims are crossing the damaged road and only bus without passengers are allowed to cross

Pilgrims are crossing the damaged road and only bus without passengers are allowed to cross

Sunset at Tehri dam 

---OM SIVAYA NAMAHA:---