… A Continuation post
to The Arcot Nawabs Trail at Triplicane – a Heritage walk with Kombai S Anwar – Part- II ( Azeempet )
21st
August 2017.
After
AZEEMPET, we headed towards the Wallajah Big Mosque. During our earlier visit
to this Wallajah Big Mosque Wallajah Big Mosque, we are not
allowed in side the prayer hall, instead a person took us around the mosque. But this walk along with Mr Anwar we were
given a warm welcome and the ladies are also allowed inside the prayer hall.
After washing our feet entered in to the mosque.
The
complex consists a Mosque and a Dargah with a big open space in front. The mosque is with two
minarets, was built during 18th century by Mohammad Ali
Khan Wallajah with stone including ceiling. The minarets are built with stucco.
It was told that the minaret stupi or kalasams are made of Gold.
Wallajah
followed the secularism during his rule. The niche of the centre of the mosque mihrab is inscribed with a chronogram ( “Chronogram” meant “time writing”.
For example, the word ‘scatterer’ is year 1492 the year in which Jews were
expelled from Spain. Rajah Makhan’s Chronogram, ‘Dhikrullahi Akbar’ (Remembrance of God is
great) gives us the year of
construction as 1209 Hijri which translates to 1794 CE. Taken from Mr
Venkararangan's post. Thanks for the information sir). This
contains the numerical value assigned to
each letter in the text when added gives the year of the event. This verse was
selected after a competition and composed by a Hindu Rajah Makhan Lal Hirat. It was
told that Sindhi community is allowed to serve “nonbu kanchi” during Ramzan fasting
period at the mosque. Wallajah also
donated to Hindu and Christian temples. Mr Anwar pointed out that the
Kapaleeswarar temple Tank / pond was gifted by Wallajah.
LOCATION: CLICK HERE
LOCATION: CLICK HERE
On the right is the Dargah of Bahrul Uloom a great scholar. Wallajah invited him to
teach in his madrasa which is adjacent to the mosque. When he arrived to Madras,
Wallajah personally carried the palanquin which carried Bahrul Uloom in to the
Mosque. Many Wallajah family members are laid to rest in this Dargah.
On the left side of the open ground there is white building, which was the “Ottoman Empire’s Consulate". As a consul of Turkey Mohamed Badsha Sahib started a business on Triplicane High road in 1812AD. When he was on tour in west Asia during 1866AD, his family sent money for the Hamede-Hadjaz Railway Project which connects Holy cities of Arabia with Turkey. This Railway line was featured in the film “ Lawrence of Arabia”.
When we finished our visit of Wallajah Big mosque,
it was around 08.30 hours, so we rushed to Amir Mahal, since as per the
schedule we are supposed to be there by 08.00 hrs. On the way
we peeped in to a mid 18th century “Majid Anvari” mosque
with plain prayer hall & courtyard and an another Mosque of the same
period which has a central dome structure adjacent to the previous one.
Majid Anvari
Majid Anvari ( A mosque with dome is another one )
On the way to Amir Mahal, passed through “Khana
Bagh Street”. ( Khana in hindi – song ). Mr Anvar told that this street was busy
with musicians and dancers during Nawabs period. The Hindustani music also
flourished in Triplicane area.
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