Friday 19 July 2019

Arulmigu Subramaniya Swamy Temple / Tiruchendur Murugan Temple / திருச்செந்தூர் முருகன் கோவில், Thirucheeralaivai / Tiruchendur / Thiruchendur, Thoothukudi District, Tamil Nadu.

30th June 2019.
This Thiruchendur Arulmigu Subramaniya Swamy is always close to my hearts. During my 25 years of stay at SPIC, Thoothukudi (Tuticorin), had been to this temple “N” number of times. During 80s we, in a group used to go to Thiruchendur, once in a month, by walk. It was golden days. On 30th June 2019, when I went to Thoothukudi to attend one of my friend daughter’s Marriage, I do not want to miss a chance of visiting the Thiruchendur Murugan Temple after a long period.  With some few structural  changes out side and the “Q” system arrangement, my Murugan looks cute.

West side Rajagopuram with South side entrance gopuram

The Inscriptions and the Sangam literatures  Tolkappiyam, Purananuru, Agananuru, Thirumurugatrupadai and latter period Pamban Swamigal mentions this place Thiruchendur in different names. This place was called as “Thirucheeralaivaai” (கடல் அலையின் வாயில் ), Thiruchenthil, Thiruchenthiyur, Jayanthipuram, Chinthipuram, Thirupuvanamathevi Chaturvedi mangalam. The name Thiruchendur came after Arunagirinathar mentions in his hymn. 

Moolavar : Arulmigu Subramaniya Swamy also called as 
                Thiruchendur Murugan

Some of the salient features of this temple are…
The temple is facing east with two prakaras. Entrance is from the South side. Starts from South side entrance both prakaras are completely covered. The 9 tier Rajagopuram is on the West ( which will be opened for a day in a year for Lord Murugan’s procession and devotees are not allowed through this entrance ) and a small 3 tier Rajagopuram is on the east side between outer and inner prakara. The sanctum sanctorum consists of Sanctum, antarala and ardha mandapam. In koshtam, Guru Dakshinamurthy, Bala Subramanya Swamy and Mayura Nathar. 

There is a Pancha linga Sannadhi abutting the north side of the sanctum with a separate entrance. A Dwajasthambam / Kodimaram is in 2nd parakaram and another Dwajasthambam / Kodimaram with peacock is in the inner prakaram.

In the inner prakara Bhairavar, Saneeswara, Natarajar, Kattabomman worshiped Jakkamma, Sri Shanmugar Chandrasekarar, Somaskandar, Chandikeswarar, Devasena, Sri Valli, Shasti mandapa, 63var, Sankara Narayanan, Kasi Viswanathar, Visalakshi, Vedapureeswarar, Ekambaranathar.

In the outer praharam a Dwajasthambam, Sri Venkatachalapathy in a Cave, Sthala purana photos, Vallabha Ganapati, Arunagirinathar, Vanmikanathar, Jalakandeswarar, Arunachaleswarar  with Unnamulai Amman, Thiru Kalatheeswarar, Uma Maheswarar, Somanathar with Meenakshi, Thirumoola Nathar, Aanmalinga, Manonmani Amman, Banukeswarar, Sura Samhara moorthy, Sakthi Ganapathy, 108 Lingam, Vallabhai Ganapathy and Kodimara Kalyana Vinayagar.

Out side the Temple are the Mandapas, Nazhi kinaru, Golden Chariot and Valli Cave.

The 15th Century Saint Arunagirinathar has sung hymns on Murugan of this temple.

விறல்மார னைந்து மலர்வாளி சிந்த
     மிகவானி லிந்து                                ......வெயில்காய
மிதவாடை வந்து தழல்போல வொன்ற
     வினைமாதர் தந்தம்                              ...... வசைகூற
குறவாணர் குன்றி லுறைபேதை கொண்ட
     கொடிதான துன்ப                                    ...... மயல்தீர
குளிர்மாலை யின்க ணணிமாலை தந்து
     குறைதீர வந்து                                    ...... குறுகாயோ
மறிமானு கந்த இறையோன்ம கிழ்ந்து
     வழிபாடு தந்த                                        ...... மதியாளா
மலைமாவு சிந்த அலைவேலை யஞ்ச
     வடிவேலெ றிந்த                                      ...... அதிதீரா
அறிவால றிந்து னிருதாளி றைஞ்சு
     மடியாரி டைஞ்சல்                           ..... களைவோனே
அழகான செம்பொன் மயில்மேல மர்ந்து
     அலைவாயு கந்த                                 ...... பெருமாளே.

LEGEND OF THE TEMPLE:
As Per the Legend, this is one of the Arupadai Veedu, where asura Surapadman was killed by Thiruchendur Murugan. The Asura Surapadman gave frequent troubles to Devas. When they complained to Lord Shiva,  he created 6 children through his third eye. Sri Parvathi made them in to a single boy with 6 faces and 12 hands also She gave the lance / Vel to fight with Surapadman. After 5 days of fight with Surapadman, Lord Muruga killed him on the 6th day. Surapadman transformed in to a mango tree and the lance pierced in to two, of one piece turned to Peacock and another piece turned to Cock. Lord Muruga took Peacock as Vahana and cock as his flag.

THE HISTORY OF IDOLS
As per the legend The Dutch East India Company used the temple as garrison between 1646 to 1648 CE, during the conflict with Portuguese. As per the order of Madurai Nayaks they vacated the temple and took away the Urchavar ( Thinking that the idols were made of gold )  and Nataraja. In the middle of the see the ship which carried the idols met the gale and storm. So the Dutch officers  dropped the Idols in to the sea and immediately the sea became calm. Lord Muruga came in the dream of Vadamalaiyappa Pillai an ardent devotee, where the idols was dropped. With the help of Adhitha Nadar the idols were retrieved and installed back. This story photos/ paintings are hung in the outer prakara.

Painting of Dutch looting the idols

Actual History of the Idols: 
But in actual story from the Dutch records was different. They took away the idols to Dutch Ceylon and asked 1 ( One ) lakh reals as ransom to return back. In 1650 CE,  A delegation of Hindu and Muslims of Kayalpattinam went Ceylon to retrieve back. In the meantime Ravi Varma of Travancore had a secret deal to buy the idols. In 1651CE the idols were sent back to Kayalpattinam along with the merchant Van der Meijden, offering to sell for  30000 to 25000 reals. Since nobody came forward for that amount the merchant returned back to Galle of Ceylon. After that the Dutch records are silent. From the 1653 CE inscription in the mandapa  the idols were installed back in presence of Thirumalai Nayak and Vadamalaiyappa Pillai, then Governor of Tirunelveli.

HISTORY & TEMPLE ARCHITECTURE:
Since the actual period of Construction is not known, it is believed that the temple was built by Pandyas & Cheras with sand stone, during 6th to 8th Century. The earliest inscription of 875 CE belongs to Varaguna Pandian.

This inscription of Pandya King Varaguņa-Mahārāja registers the gift by the king, of 1,400 kāśu for meeting the various annual requirements of the temple of Subrahmanya- bhatarar. The money was invested by the king's three officers Iruppaikkudi- kilavan, Sättamperuman and Alarzürnáttukkon with the administrative bodies of various villages which were required to pay annually interest in grain to the temple at two kalam per käsu per year. This inscription also records the punishment as thandam, it it is not followed.

The record is dated in the year 13 opposite to a certain year (lost), of the king's reign. The amount of 1,400 käsu is stated to have been made over on the 500lst day (line 7). The inscription starts as ….

First slab, first face.
  1. …………. ஸ்ரீ கொ வரகுண மாராயற்கு யாண்டு
  2. ………………தனெதிர் பதின்மூன்று இவ்வாண்டு திரு
  3. …………. சுப்பிரம(ண்) ணிய படாரர் உபா….
Ref: This inscription is inscribed in two slabs, 210 lines ( two slabs on both sides - 4 faces ). This is recorded in the SII Volume –XIV and Published in Epigraphia Indica, Vol. XXI, pp. 101. 
 
 Pandya inscriptions
 Pandya inscriptions
The front mandapa, prakara, were extended in 16th - 17th Century by Vijayanagara Nayaks. In 1650 CE the Rajagopuram was constructed by Thiruvaduthurai Adheenam. Further expanded by Maharaja Marthanda Varma (1729-58 CE ). 

The structures were damaged heavily due to sea salt laden wind and sea water, since the sea waves used to hit the temple when they are rough. With the effort of Mouna Swami, Desika Murti Swami and Kasi Swami the sand stones were replaced with granite stones. The work continued for about 72 years and a lot of money was incurred. Finally the work was completed and Kumbhabhishekam was performed in 1941 CE. Further Kumbhabhishekam were performed in  the years 1959, 1971 and 1983.

In one of the inscription it was mentioned that Moolavar Vigraham was replaced in 1984 CE, by the trustees Thirumalai kozhunthu Pillai and S Vedha Murthy Mudaliar and paradista ashta bandhana kumbhabhishekam was performed. In that inscription Chozha mandalam, Chera mandalam, Thondai mandalam and Eezhamandalam are mentioned.

The inscription of Moolavar change in 1984. 

During Thirumalai Nayak period 1648 CE, Thiruchendur temple was looted the Idols and Jewells, by the Dutch. Vadamalaya Pillai was the representative of Thirumalai Nayak during that period. As per the Valli Amman Cave inscription, After that 1565 CE with the permission of the King he excavated the well and built a mandapa. For regular worship an endowment was created by the Muthiah Josiyar. The inscription reads as....
1] முருகன் அருளால் நட
2] ந்து வருகின்றன கந்
3] த கடவுளாருக்கு வல்
4] லியை மணம் செய்ய வே
5] னுமென்று சம்புவை
6] ஆறாதித்தனள் உடனே லிங்
7] சுரூபிலாயினர் லிங்
8] க விழவின்றாகிய சிவபெரு
9] மான் சதாதேவனாய்ப்
10] பூஜை செய்யும் இடத்துக்
11] குவல்லி ஒளிக்கும் மவ
12] ள் நாடென பெயர் தங்கிய
13] இந்த தலஸ்தலத்தில் ஸ்தல புறா
14] ணத்தில் இருக்கின்றன [இ
15] தை]1580 [வருசத்தி]ல் திருச்
16] செந்தூரில் றாஜர் கல்
17] பிச்ச கட்டளை ஏற்படுத்
18] திய சமையம் முத்த
19] ய அவதானியை கல்
20] பிச்சுப் பாத நமஸ்காரம்
21] செய்ய ஏற்படுத்தினர்
22] அவரால் பிறிதிக்கு கொ
23] ண்டு வந்த இதை [மேற்படி]வ
24] வகையாறாக்கள் முத்தைய்ய
25] ஜோஸியன் கந்த
26] ப்பிறவு உத்தரவினை
27] படி யிந்தபடிக்கி
28] கிணறு சகல மண்ட
29] பம் யிவை தயாநி
30] தி முருகன் அருளா
31] நித்திய பூஜை
32] யும டைந்து வருகி
33] றது உ வைகாசி
34] ………..
     
 Once wells are there along the east wall- The Pandya King's daughter took bath and changed her face from Horse in to Beautiful face- the inscription stone. 
FESTIVALS:
Apart from daily poojas, Annual festivals like Vaikasi Visakam, a 10 days Avani festival, 7 Days Skanda Sasti festival, 12 days Masi festival and Panguni Uthiram  are celebrated in a grand manner.

 Sura Samhara Moorthy

TEMPLE TIMINGS:
The temple will be kept opened between  05.00 hrs to 21.00 hrs without break.  Male Devotees are not allowed to wear baniyan or shirts. ( This practice may be followed from 18th Century Maharaja Marthanda varma period, who had contribution to this temple ).

CONTACT DETAILS:
The Land line numbers 04639 -242221, 242270 and 242271 may be contacted for further details.

HOW TO REACH:
Bus facility is available from all the district head quarters.
Thiruchendur is about 40 KM from Thoothukudi, the district head quarters, 55 KM from Tirunelveli, 180 KM from Madurai and 640 KM from Chennai.
Nearest Railway station is Thiruchendur and other express train Tirunelveli.
Nearest Airport, Thoothukudi and Madurai.

LOCATION: CLICK HERE
 
East side Rajagopuram
 West side Rajagopuram with real Peacock & Peahen 

 West side Rajagopuram with Mandapam

 Surapadman
Prayer cloths tied along Valli Gugai / Cave path 
 ---OM SHIVAYA NAMA---

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