Vijayalaya Choleeswaram / Pazhiyili Eswaram / Pathinen Bhoomi Vinnagaram / Jwarahareswarar Rock Cut Cave Temple / நார்த்தாமலை விஜயாலய சோழீஸ்வரம் / Narthamalai, Pudukkottai District, Tamil Nadu.

The second visit to this Narthamalai group of structural and Rock Cut Cave Temples on Narthamalai was a part of the Heritage Visit to temples around Keeranur in Pudukkottai District, organized by “Yaaooyakay – யாஊயாகே” group on 2^nd and 3^rd, October 2021.

 

This hill is one of the group of 9 hills of Pudukottai ( Mela-malai, Kottaimalai, Kadambar-malai, Paraiyan-malai, Uvachchan-malai, Aluruttimalai, Bommadi-malai, Man-malai and Pon-malai. Mela-malai or Western Hill is also called Samanar-malai and sometimes Sivanmalai ). Another saying is that this hill was originally called Nagarathar malai, which was turned into Narthamalai, dominated by the Nattukottai Nagarathars ( Chettiars ), who are involved in business. The inscription at Kadambar Koil mentions this Vanika Kuzhu (group ), as Thisaiyaayirathu Ainnurruvar. ( Experts believe that Thisaiyaayirathu Ainnurruvar was a part of Nattukottai Nagarathars ). It is believed that the stones required for Thanjavur Rajarajecharam were sourced from these hills.

The Narthamalai Temple complex is at the ¾ of the Hill and consists of  Vijayalaya Chozheswaram, a structural Temple built by Mutharaiyar during the 9^th Century, and two cut cave temples for Shiva and Vishnu, which houses “Pathinen Bhoomi Vinnagaram” and “Pazhiyizhi Eswarar shrine”. In addition to this, there are two unfinished small caves.

As per the inscriptions, this place was called Rettapadikonda Chozhavalanattu Annalvayil Kootrathu Telugukulakalapuram. During Kulothunga Period this place was called Kulothunga Chozha Pattinam. 

VIJAYALAYA CHOZHEECHURAM / Viajayalaya Chozheeswaram.

The temple is opposite to Pazhiyil Eswarar Rock cut cave temple. Facing west with a Nandi in front.  Might have a mandapam initially but only pillars exist now. The sanctum sanctorum consists of sanctum, antarala, and ardha mandapam with 6 pillars, built in Dravidian style. Pallava period dwarapalakas are at the entrance of ardha mandapam. Shiva Linga is in the round sanctum.

ARCHITECTURE

The sanctum sanctorum was constructed in a round shape with a passage like Santharam for circumambulation and the outer is in a square shape.  A 3 tier vesara Vimana is on the sanctum sanctorum.

The Adhisthana is with Upana, Jagathi, muppattai kumuda, kampu, Kandam ( with Kanda pathas ), kampu, pattikai and Kampu.  The Adhisthana is of simple Padabandha adhisthana.

The Bitti or the wall comprises Karnapathi, Salilantharam, upa Karnapathi, Salilantharam, Salaipathi, Sailantharam, upa Karnapathi and Karna pathi. The Brahmakanda pilasters form the pathi with Thadi, Kumbha, and Palakai. The Pothiyals are Viri and Vettu pothiyals.

Prastaram comprises Utharam, Vajanam, Valabi, kapotam, and Viyalavari.Kodipalai and Nasikoodus are in the kapotam. Bhuta ganas and Annas are in the Valapi.

The Hara of the first tier comprises Karnakoodu, Panjaras, Sala, and Nasi koshtas forms as a garland. Since there is a gap/ space between the first and second tier, this space is called Alintham, and Hara is called Anarpitham.

The Second tier Karnakoodus and sala forms the hara.  Upana to the 2^nd tier, the vimana is built in a square shape, and the 2^nd tier Kirugabindi and prastaram are in round/vrutha shape. This is followed to match the round / Vrutha shape sanctum sanctorum. Mutharaiyar style Apsaras are in all Karnakoodu and salas.

The second-tier Kirugabindi forms the third-tier floor with thala Rishabas. The Vimana consists of Vrutha Vethigai, Greevam, Sikaram, and Stupi. There are 4 greeva Koshtas, Maha nasis and 4 Anu nasis are in the sikaram.  Antarala is not shown on the outer wall.

The ardha mandapam was supported by 6 pillars, similar to the Pallava style. The remains of paintings are on the north and south side walls. Mutharaiyar period Dwarapalakas are at the entrance of ardha mandapam. The outside pillars outside the sanctum sanctorum rise up to the 2^nd tier. Round-shaped Sanctum sanctorum also raised up to 2^nd tier Bhoomi Desam.  The Santharam is in between Pakya bitti and Anthara bitti. Since the roof is flat ( not curved ), the santhara is considered an Alintham.

There might be 8 Parivara shrines around the main temple.  They are constructed with stone and vimana is of vrutha / vesara style. One of the sub-shrines might have been dedicated to Saptamatrikas.  Hamsa mala is seen in the parivara shrine kapotas.

The architectural style of this temple is similar to Pallava, Badami Chalukyas, and before the early Chozhas style of architecture.

HISTORY AND INSCRIPTIONS

The inscription below the north side Dwarapalaka mentions that this temple was originally constructed by a small regional Muththaraiyar king  Saththam Bhoothi alias Ilangovathi Araiyan, under Pallavas, in the 9^th Century and after it collapsed due to rain, the same was re-constructed by Mallan Vidhuman also known as Thennavan Tamizh thiraiyan.  The inscription reads as...

ஸ்வஸ்திஸ்ரீ சாத்தம் பூதியான

இளங்கோவதி அரையன் எடுப்பித்த கற்றளி

மழை இடிந்தழிய மல்லன் விதுமன்

ஆயின தென்னவன் தமிழதிரையன் புதுக்கு”

The Original temple name was not known and the present name is known from the Sundarapandian's inscription on the rock as “Vijayalaya Chozhiswaram”. Might have been obtained from Chozha King Vijayalayan.

PAZHIYILI ESWARAM.

This rock-cut cave shrine was excavated on the (Mel hill ) east side of the hill facing east. The remains of the mandapam, Dwarapalakas, and Rishabam are in front of the cave. In the sanctum, a damaged flat Shiva Linga is on a square avudayar carved out of mother rock.

  

HISTORY & INSCRIPTIONS

From the inscription, the cave was excavated during the 9^th Century ( 872 CE ) during the Pallava King Nirupathungavarman’s 7th-year rule, ( Some claims as Nandivarman-III.. ?) by the Vidael Viduku Muththaraiyan’s son Saththam Pazhiyili. Santham Pazhiyili’s daughter and Meenavan Tamil Athirayan alias Vasan Anandhan’s wife Pazhiyili Siriyanangai, constructed the front mandapa, Nandi, Kottil / kottakai / shed, Balipeedam. Savainjathan, who belongs to Peruvilaththoor of Annal Vayil Kootram donated land to Naivedyam to this temple. Land was purchased and handed over to Uruthiran Theyupukki, after exempting the Taxes, by Chiriya Nangai and to pay 25 kalanju gold as a penalty, if a default occurs.

PATHINEN BHOOMI VINNAGARAM

In front of Pazhiyili Eswaram sannidhi, there are 12 Vishnu statues carved out of mother rock, 6 on each side. Shiva Temple’s artha mandapam acts as the main shrine for this Vishnu shrine. The mandapam is supported by 2 pillars and 2 pilasters. Out of 12 Vishnu sculptures 10 are facing east and 2 are facing South and North. All the 12 Vishnu sculptures are similar in appearance and size. The remains of the base of the Mandapam, Sukhasana Shiva, Saptamatrikas, Veena Dakshinamurthy, Vinayagar, and Dwarapalakas are in front of the Rock-Cut Cave. The Shiva Linga inside the sanctum is found in damaged condition.

HISTORY AND INSCRIPTIONS

As per the iconography the experts of the opinion these Vishnu’s sculptures may belong to the 9^th or 10^th century. The Sundarapandiyan’s ( 1227 AD ) 12th-year rule inscription found on the rock records that this Vishnu’s shrine is “Pathinen Bhoomi Vinnagaram”. The inscription also records the Tax to be paid by the Newly wedded couple’s parents to the temple. The bride’s Father & Mother have to pay 120 Kidai kasu and 100 Aadai Kasu. The bridegroom’s father and mother have to pay 100 Kidai kasu and 80 Aadaikasu. In this Aadai kasu means the amount to be paid in lieu of Goats / Sheep. Kidai kasu means one type of Tax levied.

The mandapa base also has the Kulothunga Chozha’s ( 1115 CE ), 45^th year rule. The inscription mentions that this Village’s name is “Thelingakulakalapuram” in Annal Vayil Kootram of Irattappadi Chozhavala Nadu. This rock-cut cave was called Thirumer Kovil and Lord Shiva was called “Thirumanickathalwar”. In addition to this, the Telugukulakalapura merchant Devan Periyan alias Mudi Konda Chozha Telungaraiyan donated land for Thirupadi Matru ( Nivandam ) after reforming the Devaneri land also called Kudikadu into cultivable land as Kudi Neenka Devadhanam. The paddy yielded can be used by the donor after giving 75 kalam paddy/ year to this temple was allowed by the Villagers ( Oorar ). Also, the inscription records the establishment of Alwar Nandhavanam also called Uchilanjunai.  

PATHINEN BHOOMI VINNAGARAM FRONT MANDAPAM BASE

The rock-cut cave front Mandapam base is in front of the Vijayalaya Chozheeswaram. The Base is about 1.78 meters high from the ground level with 8 steps. The round Kumuda has inscriptions. In the open mandapa base Sculptures of Sukhasana Shiva, Saptamatrikas in two panels, Veenathara Dakshinamurthy, Vinayagar, Dwarapalakas, Elephants, and Makara thorana. The mandapa base is with Yazhi vari & the images of Yazhi, Elephant, Simha, Purusha mrugam, etc,.Mahara Thundam is at the corners. Saththam Pazhiyili’s daughter and Minavan Tamizh Athiraiyan Vaalan Anantha’s wife Pazhiyili Chiriya Nangai constructed the front Mandapam, Nandi, and balipeedam.

LEGENDS

It is believed that, when Hanuman was carrying the Sanjeevini Hill from the north to save the lives of soldiers and Lakshmana during the war between Rama and Ravana, Nine pieces fell down and formed these 9 hills.

In Another legend, Naradar came and stayed here for some time. Hence this place was called Nardar Malai and the same has been corrupted to the present name of Narthamalai.

JWARAHARESWARAR ROCK CUT CAVE TEMPLE

This rock-cut cave is on the 1/3 height of the Narthamalai. This cave temple was called locally as Sunaiyandar Koil. The cave measures 7’ x 9’ x 8 feet. Moolavar Shiva linga on a square avudayar was scooped from the mother rock / Thaiparai.  Usually, this cave will be completely submerged in water. The water was drained after 162 years, on 4^th January 2019 and Lord Shiva gave darshan on a pradosam day. Experts believe that this rock-cut cave temple was excavated during the Mutharaiyar period, under the Pallavas Dynasty.

A 16^th to 17th-century inscription inscribed just above the cave with symbols of Trishul and Mazhu signifies that the cave is meant for Lord Shiva. The inscription reads as… 

“ஸ்வஸ்திஸ்ரீ சாலிவாகன சகாப்தம் 1781 கலியப்தம் 4958 இதன்மேல் செல்லா நின்ற பிங்கள நாம சம்வத்சரம் வெசாக மாசம் 4(ஆம் நாள்) 1857ம் வருஷம் மே மாதம் 14 இந்திர வம்ச ஜலதி சங்கரனான ப்ரகதாம்பாதாச ராஜா விஜயராய ரகுநாத தொண்டைமானார் பஹதூரவர்கள் பௌத்ரன் பிரகதாம்பாதாச யெக்சல்லன்சி ராஜா ரகுநாத தொண்டைமானார் பகதூரவர்கள் புத்திரன் பிரகதாம்பாதாச ஸ்ரீசிவராமஸ்வாமிதாச யெக்சல்லன்சி ராஜா ராமச்சந்திர தொண்டைமான் பகதூரவர்களும் மேற்படியார் துவிதிய பாரியையாகிய ஜானகி பாயிஸாப்பு அவர்களும் சத்குரு ஸ்ரீசிவராமஸ்வாமி அவர்களுடைய கிருபா கடாக்ஷ பலத்தினால் இந்த தலவர சிங்கமெங்குர தீர்த்தத்தை முழுவதும் இறைத்து நிர்மால்யம் செய்வித்து யிந்த தீர்த்தத்தில் கிருகாவாசியாய் இருக்கிற ஜ்வரஹரேஸ்வரரெங்குற மூலலிங்கத்துக்கு அபிஷேகம் பூஜா நேவேத்தியம் முதலானது நடம்பி வைத்து ஸ்ரீசிவராமஸ்வாமி அவர்கள் முன்னுக்கு தெர்சனம் செய்தார்கள்”

As per the inscription, on 14^th May 1857, Pudukkottai King Raja Ramachandra Thondaiman came to this place along with his second wife Janaki. During that time the complete water was drained out in the “Thalavara Singam” sunai and worshiped Lord Shiva Jwarahareswarar, through his Kula Guru Sivarama Swamy.

In addition to the above a new 13^th Century inscription was also found. The inscription reads “Keezhangkarayan Siva Poojai”.    

HOW TO REACH:

This Narthamalai, is just a KM from Kadambar Malai, Kadambar Koil, 9 KM from Keeranur, 19 KM from Pudukkottai, 41 KM from Tiruchirappalli and 363 KM from Chennai.

Nearest Railway station is Keeranur and Junction is Tiruchirappalli

LOCATION OF THE TEMPLE: CLICK HERE

Painting in the ardha mandapam 

Painting in the ardha mandapam 

Painting in the ardha mandapam 

Painting in the ardha mandapam 

Painting in the ardha mandapam 

Painting in the ardha mandapam 

Painting in the ardha mandapam 

Eri Kalvettu

---OM SHIVAYA NAMA---