Hari Sri Vasudeva Perumal Temple / ஹரி ஸ்ரீ வாசுதேவ பெருமாள் கோயில், Velachery, Chennai, Tamil Nadu.

19^th August 2018

This Perumal with Sridevi and Bhoodevi is sitting under an asbestos sheet shed. This small shrine with Biruku muni, Ramanujar and Thumbikkai Alwar  are on the Telugu Brahmin Street. During Chozha time this place Velachery was one of the Chaturvedi mangalam in Puliyur kottam of Jayangonda Chozha Mandalam. The  legend of Shiva temple, about 500 meter away from this place at Dhandeeswaram, is related the story of chatur Vedas ie, 4 vedas. Regarding to telugu Brahmins, before bifurcation of the State  Tamil Nadu, based on the language, in Chennai  most of the people’s language was Telugu and Telugu Brahmins  might have lived in a separate street adjacent to Brahmin Street.

  

HISTORY AND INSCRIPTIONS

When I enquired, about these more than 800 to 1000 years old moothams and the Shrine, the battar pointed out a small dilapidated  temple built with stone up to ceiling and brick vimana under the clutch of peepal tree. It was  told that these moorthams are un earthed in front of that dilapidated temple.  This temple is about 50 feet away from the existing  Shrine.  The sanctum sanctorum is visible only from half of the koshtams, adhistanam and the part of the wall are under the earth due to raise of the ground level.  Perumal’s various forms are  chiseled  in the koshta makara thorana.  Unwanted materials are dumped on the back side of the temple leaves room for the snakes and front side was also encroached.

The sanctum wall has 10^th to 11^th century Chozha period inscriptions. The inscriptions are not legible to read. The temple construction might have started along with the Yoga Narasimha Perumal temple of Dhandeeswaram. When I inquired the neighbors, they are not aware of the history and also there is a belief that who ever tries to renovate this temple,  will die after some time, hence nobody comes forward.

Inscription pic Courtesy Mr Vaidhyanathan.

TEMPLE TIMINGS:

Temple will be kept open between 08.00 hrs to 09.00 hr and  18.00 hrs to 20.00 hrs.

CONTACT DETAILS:

The mobile numbers of Vijayan 98402 54354 and Vijaya Raghava 9894533061, may be contacted for further details.

HOW TO REACH:

Dhandeeswaram  is a part of Velachery and the Telugu Brahmin’s street is near Dhandeeswaram bus stop before Vijayanagaram bus terminus.

All the town buses from Koyambedu, T Nagar will stop at Dhandeeswaram.

LOCATION: GPS Co ordination : 12.982743, 80.219752

 The brick vimana 

The brick vimana 

 Makara thorana reliefs 

 Makara thorana reliefs 

---OM SHIVAYA NAMA---

Sri Soundaraja Perumal Temple / ஸ்ரீ சௌந்திரராஜ பெருமாள் கோயில் / ஸ்ரீ சுந்தரராஜ பெருமாள் கோயில், Velachery, Chennai, Tamil Nadu.

19^th August 2018.

When I enquired any old temple in the vicinity, the Hari Sri Vasudeva Perumal’s  temple battar directed to this Soundararaja Perumal temple. The Moorthams are old but the temple was constructed in the recent years. This temple is facing east at the intersection of  two street and a Pillayar temple is adjacent to this temple.

This is a small shrine with sanctum and a mandapa. Garudalwar is in front. Moolavar and Sridevi and bhudevi are big in size about 5 feet tall and in sitting posture. Moolavar Sri Soundararaja Perumal’s upper hands are holding conch and chakra, but the lower right hand in abhaya mudra and left hand in advaana hastham ( pointing finger is little raised means Perumal is calling his devotees ). Hence this Perumal is worshiped as kodukkum theivam. Urchavars Soundararaja Perumal with Soundaravalli Thayar and Andal are in standing posture.  The urchavar’s lower hands are in the same posture as moolavar.

HISTORY AND INSCRIPTIONS

The battar Sriram told that this moorthams are more than 800 years old, unearthed on the back side of this temple under a neem tree.  Also it was told that the person who shifted and constructed this temple is well off now.

TEMPLE TIMINGS:

The temple will be kept opened between  06.30 hrs to 11.00 and 17.30 to 20.25 hrs.

CONTACT DETAILS:

Battar Sriram may be contacted  on the following land line and mobile for further details. +91 44 22432018 and +91 9790837531.

HOW TO REACH:

The temple is on the intersection of Pillayar Koil Street and Pillayar Koil Lane near Telugu Brahmin Street and Bajanai Koil Street.

Dhandeeswaram  is a part of Velachery and 2 streets after the Telugu Brahmin’s street is near Dhandeeswaram bus stop before Vijayanagar bus terminus.

All the town buses from Koyambedu, T Nagar will stop at Dhandeeswaram.

LOCATION:CLICK HERE

---OM SHIVAYA NAMA---

Sri Thiyagesar Temple of Thiruvotriyur / ஸ்ரீ தியாகராஜர் கோயில் / வடிவுடை அம்மன் கோயில் / – A HERITAGE PERSPECTIVE VISIT WITH RATHAM.

18^th August 2018.

( A Separate post was written in Tamil, about this Temple. During my earlier Visit the temple was preparing for Kumbhabhishekam. For The details in Tamil please click this Link. )     Also Visited the temple after Kumbhabhishekam.. For the photographs after Kumbhabhishekam please Click this link )

Why this place is called Thiruvotriyur.. ?

This place Thiruvotriyur exists since paleolithic period with human habitation. As per the literature this place was called as Adhipuri, hence this temple’s Lord is called as Adhipuriswarar. Another version is, the creator of this universe, Brahma created this place first, hence this is called as Aadhipuri. This place is also called as Thiruvotriyur. Thiruvotriyur has different meanings. In Tamil “oththi” which means mortgage. Another meaning is the “wiping out”. During piralaya the this place was completely covered with water and Shiva wiped out water, hence this place is called as Thiruvotriyur. From the copper plate of Velanchery near Thiruthani, Vijayalaya Chozha’s father name was mentioned as "Votriyuran". The same name appears in the Tiruchengode inscription also. As per the Thevaram hymns, the sea was very near and able to hear the roaring sound of the sea waves.

 

The Rajagopuram and front mandapam…The east side Rajagopuram is of 5 tiers, with stucco images related saivam. Kumba pancharam between the pilasters of the walls. This might have built between 10^th to 13^th century, probably during Rajendra Chozha period. The stucco images belongs to 16^th century Nayaka’s period.

 Main door

Miniature reliefs of Rajagopuram base

The front mandapam of the main shrine was built during Chozha period. It is to be noted that the main sanctum and Rajagopuram are not in the same straight line. Thiyagesar sannadhi was built during 16^th to 17^th century. The fusion of Chozha period mandapa with the latter period Thiyagesar sannadhi can be seen from out side. The outer prakaram has the 27 shiva lingas, ( old Lingas ) represents the 27 nakshatras, on the south side of the outer prakaram.

 

The main sanctum front mandapa is called a "Nithya Yaga Sala", where yagam used to be conducted daily. This mandapa might have been built during 12^th Century, a latter Chozha period. The ceiling has the statues of shiva’s Various forms. In that an amazing one is the small size Bikshadanar.  Dwarapalakas at the entrance of the main sanctum are worth to see. The laladam of the crown has the simha image. Both crown image are different. Also both are not installed on a pedestal. Since the inscriptions are on the back side wall of  the Dwarapalakas, they were brought from elsewhere and installed here. The inscription on the right side wall ( right side dwarapalaka), speaks about a land distributed to 10 people who staged the life story of the Sundarar in presence of Sathuranthantha pandithar, Vasika Pandithar, Soma Siddhanatha Pandithar and Otriyur Battar. In that it is mentioned the land value should be the same value of the land that sold at Dhandeeswaram, part of Chennai City.  In the Nithya yaga mandapam near Natarajar Sannadhi there is a Chandikeswarar, which belongs to 8^th to 9^th Century.

 Dwarapalakas 

  Chandikeswarar

Bhikshatana / Pichadanar

In the inner prakaram near Kaliya Nayanar Sannadhi, there is an old Chozha painting faintly visible, which was discovered during renovation. Kaliya Nayanar, one of the 63 Nayanmar belongs to this Thiruvotriyur. He spend all his money for lighting lamps for this temple. When he do not have money, he intend to lit the lamp with his blood. When tries to cut his head, Lord Shiva appeared and blessed him. The inner prakaram may belongs to 9th to 10th century. The pillars has the Chozha period inscriptions. The original temple may be of brick temple with a square base sanctum.  During Chozha period this was reconstructed as Gajabirushta sanctum with stone. The sanctum has the inscriptions of Rajendra period in Sanskrit, and many inscriptions speaks about the donation made to this temple for burning lamps. Some of the donations are in terms of “sava moova peeradu“ – which means at any point of time the number of goats offered should not decrease. The name of the architect / sculpture of this temple  is mentioned as Veera Chozha Ravi thachan. One of the inscription speaks about an officer who has not collected the tax  from the property belongs to this temple was called as “Shiva Thuroki” and his property was confiscated and attached to this temple.  In one inscription 15% interest in terms of gold as tax to be collected once in six months and food for this collector should be served.

 The story of Kaliya Nayanar

 Chozha period inscriptions on the pillar

Chozha period painting

Vattaparai Amman temple. This is actually a saptamatrikas temple facing North. The poojaris are not the usual Sivachariyar. For this sannadhi and Ambal Sannadhi, kerala namboothiris, that too unmarried are doing pooja. It was learnt that this Vattaparai Amman was treated as Village deity and animals are sacrificed. A palipedam and Soolam was there in front of this temple, which was removed  in the recent years. The practice of sacrifice was also stopped few years before. Since this sannidhi is very close to the main sanctum, the sannadhi might have constructed at a latter period.

 

Moolavar Sannadhi.. Moolavar is in the form of anthill, abhishekam is done only to the avudayar. Moolavar usually kept covered and will be opened only three days in a year from Karthigai Deepam festival. Punuku and oil is applied. Iraivan also called as Padampakkanathar. As per the legend The Snake Vasuki worshiped Lord Shiva and joins with shiva with its body. This legend is very much associated to Kayarokana – Lakulisa pasupata- cult worship, ie attaining Mukti and joins with Lord Shiva with the physical body. Incidentally all Kayarokana Shiva temple are on the sea coast, Nagapattinam and a temple in Gujarat.

 

Thiyagarajar sannadhi.  Thiyagesar is in the form of a Somaskandar. The flower decorations are done in such a way that Swamy and Ambal’s face with hands are only seen. The Nadanam of Thiyagesar is Ajaba. It was told that this Thiyagesar worshiping cult may be belongs to Kalamukha sect who wears spatika kundala and yagnopaveetha made out of hair. They ate food in Kapalam ( the skull of human head).  Appar has sung that Bhikshatana came here after wandering Mylapore. Thiyarajar is a Boga moorthy. During procession SomasKandar used to come out with full of decoration and the pooja articles. 12 people used to carry the open palanquin. On the out side of the inner praharam wall and near the Thiagarajar sannadhi, north side, inscriptions was there. Which speaks about the donations like 28 samaram, Thivetti made by the devadasis. One of the donor’s name was mentioned as “Sani otriyur Akki”. Iraivan was also called as manikka Thiyagar. The sad part is, the inscriptions were covered by the flooring done in the recent years. It was also told that, olden days Somaskandar was brought out by the Devadasis. The main sanctum was built during Chozha period. Latter the mandapam was added and renovated during Vijayanagar Nayaks.

 

Kowleeswar Sannadhi…. Kowleeswar Sannadhi is on the back side of the Thiyagesar Sannadhi. A form of Shiva holding a kapalam and soolam on the upper hands and lower hands are in chin mudra and meditating posture. This moorthy may be called as "Agora Dakshinamurthy". People by mistake claims him as Kowleeswarar and somebody, Lakuleesar.

 

Bhairavar sannidhi…. A beautiful life size Bhairavar with jadamudi hangs up to floor. A half buried Bairavi is also inside the Shiva’s main sanctum just opposite to Bhairava. The presence of Bhairava and Bhairavi, indicates that Kapalika cult worship existed earlier.

 

Vadivudai Amman Temple… The Amman is facing south with a separate balipeedam, dwajasthambam and Simha vahana. The whole  Temple is also called as Vadivudai Amman Temple. For this sannadhi and Vattaparai Amman Sannadhi, kerala namboothiris, that too unmarried are doing pooja. It was told that Sankarachariyar brought namboothiris from Kerala to do pooja to Ambal. A chakra was also installed by him. Thyagaraja Swamikal has sung hymns on this Ambal. Vallalar also sung Navamani malai. Pattinathar, Vallalar, Sankaracharya, Kanchi Periyava worshiped Lord Shiva and Ambal of this temple.

 Vidhusis Archana and Aarthi – Musical treat

 Vidhusis Archana and Aarthi – Musical treat

---OM SHIVAYA NAMA---

Kunangudi Masthan Dargah / குணங்குடி மஸ்தான் தர்கா- Royapuram, Chennai, Tamil Nadu. A Royapuram Heritage Walk.

11^th August 2018.

The visit to this dargah was a part of Royapuram heritage walk/ ride. We about 35 history enthusiasts visited on 11^th August 2018. The Dargah is on the Pichandi lane, which is a diversion on Raman Street. The lane is very narrow and congested. This Dargah exists since 1838, when Kunangaudi Masthan attained mukthi.

LIFE HISTORY OF KUNANGUDI MASTHAN.

Kunangudi Masthan, was born as Sultan Abdul Kadhar to Nainar and Fathima Beevi in a Village Kunangudi near Thondi of Ramnad district in 1792. At the age of 17, he left home to escape from the marriage with his maternal uncle’s daughter, since he was interested more in religion. He went to Kizhakarai and met Thaikka Sahib alias Sheik Abdul Khadar Lebbai and got initiated. In 1813 he left everything and became the true follower of Allah, through Sufism.

He travelled length and breadth of Tamil Nadu and wandered on hills like, Thiruparankundram, Aanalmalai, Puraamalai, Naagamalai, Sathuragiri etc. Travelled to North India also. He used meditate on hills, forests, banks of rivers and got the siddhi. He had done many miracles with the siddhi he obtained. Seeing this the people called him as Masthan. When he visited Nagoor Dargah, the doors are found closed. The Miracle happened when he sang as song, the door opened automatically.   

Finally he arrived Royapuram (Tondiarpet) and roamed like a lunatic singing songs on the streets. He ate the food offered by the people  and in turn he had done some siddhus for them. Hearing about Kunangudi Masthan, Bava Lebbai has become his disciple and built a small ashram for him in his kavanthoppu, which contained thorny bushes. He used to meditate in a small subterranean chamber of the ashram. Not only Muslims, Hindus like Ayyaswamy Mudaliar, Maha Vidwan Saravaperumaalayyar, Venkat Rayapillai, Kovalam Arunachala Mudaliar's Son Sabapathy also became the disciple to Masthan Sahib.  It was told that after meeting Aroct Navab, Kunangudi Masthan was dropped in the ashram through his private palanquin. 

He stayed and meditated for 12 years. When he knows of his departure from this materialistic world, he informed in the dream of Bava Lebbai about his departure in 1838 at the age of 47. Next day, he was found under a tree in the ashram wrapped with white cloth.  The dargah has the Samadhi of Kunangudi Masthan at the center and his disciples are  buried on the left and right side. Still people of all walks of life from various parts of Tamil Nadu visits this dargah for his blessings. It was told that only those observe sanyasam ( away from family life ) are allowed in to the meditating chamber. 

An additional piece of information. Since Kunangudi Masthan came from Thondi, the Tondiarpet ( Royapuram is adjacent to Tondiarpet ) was called initially as Thondi-ar-pet and latter turned to Tondiarpet.

HIS WORKINGS

He had composed many songs nearly 1057 on Allah considering him as a female. The important songs are “Manonmani Kanni” and “Rehman kanni”. His songs are compiled and Published by Professor Abdul Rehman in 1980. He is also praised as Muslim Thayumanavar.

LOCATION: CLICK HERE
 

---OM SHIVAYA NAMA---

Suzhal Methai /சுழல் மெத்தை, Kalmandapam Market /கல் மண்டபம் மார்கெட், C S I Christina Rainy Hospital, Monegar /மணியகாரர் & Rajah of venkatagiri and Robinson Park at Royapuram, Chennai, Tamil Nadu. - A PART OF ROYAPURAM HERITAGE WALK/RIDE.

11^th August 2018.

SUZHAL METHAI  - சுழல் மெத்தை -( SPIRAL WINDING STAIRS), ROYAPURAM

This indo-saracenic style building with two inside spiral step tower was built in the year 1930, by the NV Shanmugam Company’s  Pattanam podi ( snuff powder – மூக்கு பொடி  ) for their tobacco product advertisement, which existing since 1904.  The architect for the building was from Persia and Arabia. The total land was purchased at a cost of Rs 167. The stones required for the construction are brought from Rajasthan.

It was a land mark once, a new owner purchased the building and renovated the 2 floors with out altering the towers. Addiction Sindur, a ready made garments store is functioning. The area is named after this building as Suzhal methai –சுழல் மெத்தை. 
(http://www.nvsgroups.co.in/index.php )

LOCATION:CLICK HERE 

KALMANDAPAM MARKET – கல் மண்டபம் மார்க்கெட், ROYAPURAM

One of the oldest market in Royapuram, believed to be built and renovated by Subbiah Achari in 1818. Open shops with a raised platform arrangement. The shops were build in rows and center rows are accessible from both sides. The roof was laid with mangalore tiles made in 1865, by Basal mission Tiles works, Mangalore. Some of the supporting pillars are in stone. The litigation in court between the previous seller and the present owner Koteswara Rao leaves this market without any maintenance. Hence absolutely no maintenance is carried out and roof is about to collapse and looks like a junk yard. In-spite of this pathetic condition, about 5 shops, vegetable, fish and mutton shops are functioning. The sales women, stays there hopping for a miracle to happen.

LOCATION:CLICK HERE

CSI. CHRISTINA RAINY HOSPITAL, ROYAPURAM

This hospital was founded by Miss Christina Rainy. In 1890 two women started this hospital with 12 beds in MacPhail’s own bungalow under auspices of United free Church of Scotland. MacPhail had her Dr degree in London and came to India in 1887. For the new hospital foundation stone was  laid by the Governor of Madras Sir Arthur Lawley on 22^nd March 1911. The relocated new hospital was opened in 1914, by the Governor Lord Pent Land, with 75 beds and special wards to treat women patients. As per the records MacPhail worked till 1928. Supported entirely by local funds, mainly fees collected from private patients.  The hospital was handed over to CSI Mission in 1950s.

LOCATION:CLICK HERE

MONEGAR –மணியகாரர் -& RAJAH OF VENKATAGIRI CHOULTRY, ROYAPURAM.

In 1782, a local headman, locally known as “Maniakarar” – மணியகாரர் started this charity gruel distribution center - கஞ்சி தொட்டி -  to the poor  in his garden, at Royapuram. After the war this was converted as Choultry for the sick and poor. In 1807, to cater more poor people, the Government and  Arcot Nawab had made substantial donation to this Choultry. In Choultry, with Dr Underwood as Asst Surgeon a hospital was started in 1799. In 1801 the same hospital was combined with “Native  Hospital and Poor fund”, Native Hospital & Choultry land was taken over the Government in 1910 and renamed as Royapuram Hospital, and latter called as Stanley Hospital.  The Choultry was shifted to the nearby Rajah of Venkatagiri Choultry.

On 28^th June 1890, Rajah Kumara Yatchama, Rajah of Venkatagiri had made a donation of 1,00,000 rupees to upkeep the Choultry. The Collector of Madras is the Chairman of the Choultry in managing committee. Now  the Choultry is an asylum for the poor and orphaned elderly people. There are 51 inmates in this Choultry, now. Donations are received for providing breakfast Rs750/Lunch Rs 1250/ dinner Rs 1000 from the well wishers. The inmates are admitted after getting a written undertaking, that after the death, the corpse will be handed over to the  anatomy department of the Stanley College for Study. 

LOCATION:CLICK HERE

ROBINSON PARK, ROYAPURAM.

The evolution of “Dravida Kazhagam movement” was due to the conflicts between Brahmins and Non Brahmins. As per Eugene Irschick the  denial of equal education to the Non-Brahmins was the reason behind this movement. Iyothee Dasar started the “Dravida Maha Sabha” in 1892. In 1912, Veerasamy Naidu, Saravana Pillai, Narayanasamy and Doraisamy Naidu, who are affected in the Civil service due to Brahmanism, started the “Madras United League”, latter renamed as “Madras Dravidian Association”.

“South Indian People’s Association” was formed, in 1916, latter renamed as “Justice Party” and got power in 1920. Justice party remained in power for 13 years till the death of Rajah of Panagal. In 1944, Periyar’s supporters took control over party and C N Annadurai was the instrumental in passing a resolution to change the name as “Dravidar Kazhagam”. When Periyar married Maniammai, CN Annadurai and his supporters came out and formed a new party called “Dravida Munnetra Kazhagam” in short “DMK” on 17^th September 1949. The next day the same was announced in a  public meeting held in this Robinson Park about, the formation of “DMK” a new party and it’s principles.  

LOCATION:CLICK HERE

---OM SHIVAYA NAMA---

Southern Railway's Edmondson Tickets Printing Press, Royapuram, Chennai, Tamil Nadu.

11^th August 2018.

The last stop of our heritage was to the Edmondson tickets printing press. It was told the visitors were not allowed and we are the first batch allowed to peep in may be last also. Special permission was given by the Asst. General Manager of Southern Railway and thanks to him.

This Edmondson tickets are introduced in 1840s by the British railways as a replacement to the hand written receipts. This was invented by Thomas Edmondson, who worked with the British rails. Initially the introduction of these type of tickets faced little restriction but latter the same was resolved. These tickets are 31x75x.75 mm in size. This system was introduced in 1892 by the Southern Railway and this printing press at Royapuram was started in 1926 and completed it’s golden jubilee. In 1926 the  staff are deputed to the Madras trade School when it started a separate printing press. The 1927 German made printing machines is idle  after retirement.

The high security with Southern Railway  water mark /monogram 192 tickets are printed on a 500 GSM card board and cut to sizes through hmt made cutting machines. The tickets contains the amount, the stations and the class. Serial numbers are punched manually. Different colour boards are used for different classes like, white, light green,light yellow, light brown etc,. The trilingual languages are printed. 250 tickets are tied with a rope using hand press. It was told that 15000 to 18000 tickets are dispatched per day. These tickets are issue for the local short distance trains.The decision of Closure of the press in 2017,was revoked in Feb 2018, due to the resistance of employees. Since most the jobs in the printing press are done manually  and the issuing of computerized tickets this printing press is at the verge of extinct.

Apart from tickets, the press also prints the time tables, reservation forms, books for Railways, etc,. This is one of the ticket printing press out of 5 presses functioning in India and other 4 are Byculla, Howrah, Shakurbasti and Secunderabad.  

LOCATION:CLICK HERE

192 tickets printed board 

bundling of 250 tickets 

 192 tickets are printing in a sheet

Individual tickets are cut

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DF7LWb5DdQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QKBW8lTIaWk

---OM SHIVAYA NAMA---