Bibi-ka-Maqbara / बीबी का मक़बरा / பி பி கா மக்பாரா / பிபியின் கல்லறை– Aurangabad, Maharashtra State, India.

The Visit to this Bibi-ka-Maqbara, a mausoleum / grave built for Aurangzeb's wife and one of the world Heritage sites, at Aurangabad  was a part of “Ajanta & Ellora Heritage Walk”, organized by Enthisai Historical Heritage Walk Group - எண்திசை வரலாற்று மரபுநடைக் குழு, from 23^rd to 26^th December 2023. We have made this visit after visiting Ellora Caves. The total complex including the entrance arch / building was illuminated. This Historical monument  is being maintained by Archaeological Survey of India ( ASI  ).

THE HISTORY OF BIBI-KA-MAQBARA. 

இந்த பிபி கா மக்பாரா அல்லது ஒரு பெண்மணியின் கல்லறை, ஔரங்கசீப்பின் மனைவி ராபியா துரானியின் ஞாபகார்த்தமாக  ஔரங்கசீப்பின் மகன் ஆசம் ஷாவால் காம் நதியின் வடக்கு கரையில் கட்டப்பட்டது, இக்கல்லறை பொயு 1668 ஆம் ஆண்டு ஆக்ரா தாஜ்மஹாலின் கட்டிடக்கலைஞரான அஹ்மத் லஹௌரியின் மகன் அதாவுல்லாவால் வடிவமைக்கப்பட்டது. தாஜ்மஹாலின் அமைப்பிலேயே வடிவமைக்கப்பட்டு இருப்பதால் இது மினி தாஜ்மஹால் எனவும், தக்கானத்தின் தாஜ் எனவும் அழைக்கப்படுகின்றது.

தெற்குபகுதியில் இருக்கும் மற்றுமொரு கல்லறை, ஔரங்கசீப்பின் மனைவி ராபியா துரானியின் பணிப்பெண் ராபியா தௌரானியின் கல்லறறை என்று கருதப்படுகின்றது.

குலாம் முஸ்தபாவின் தாவரிக் நாமா, கணிப்பின் படி இக்கல்லறை ஆறு லட்சத்து அறுபத்து எட்டாயிரத்து இருநூற்று மூன்று ரூபாய், ஏழு அணாக்களால் ( Rs 6,68,203-7 - Rupees Six Lakh, Sixty Eight Thousand, Two Hundred and Three & Seven Annas ), பொயு 1651-1661, இல் கட்டப்பட்டது.

The beautiful mausoleum of Aurangzeb's wife, is believed to have been constructed by Prince Azam Shah in memory of his mother Rabis –Ud-dauranl alias Dilras Banu Begum between circa 1651-1661CE,  on the banks of north side of the river Kham. An inscription on the main entrance door records that, this mausoleum was designed and erected by Ata-Ulla, an Architect and Hanspat Rai, an Engineer. As the mausoleum architecturally resembles the Taj Mahal of Agra built in 1631-1653 CE, this is known as "Taj of Deccan" or “Mini Taj Mahal”.

There is another tomb adjacent to the southern part of platform believed to be the nurse of Rabia Daurani.

According to the "Tawarikh Namah" of Ghulam Mustafa, the cost of construction of the mausoleum was Rs. 6,68,203-7 (Rupees Six Lakh, Sixty Eight Thousand, Two Hundred and Three & Seven Annas) in 1651-1661 CE.

ARCHITECTURE

இக்கல்லறை மற்றும் திவான்-இ-அம், திவா-இ-காஸ் என்ற மசூதியும் 458 x 275 மீட்டர் என்ற அளவில் உயர்ந்த மேடைமீது முகலாயர் மற்றும் நிஜாம் கட்டிடக்கலையில் படி தெற்குப்புற நுழைவாயிலுடன் கட்டப்பட்டுள்ளது. நுழைவாயிலில் இருந்து அழகான தோட்டத்துடன், என்கோண வடிவ நீத்தொட்டி, 61 நீர்ஊற்றுக்களுடன் ஆக்ராவில் உள்ள தாஜ்மஹாலைப் போன்றே அமைக்கப்பட்டு உள்ளது. இக்கல்லறை கட்டுமானத்திற்குத் தேவையான பளிங்கு / சலவைக்கற்கள் ஜெய்பூரில் இருந்து கொண்டுவரப்பட்டதாக கூறப்படுகின்றது.

இக்கல்லறை, கல்லறைக்குச் செல்ல மூன்றுபுறம் படிக்கட்டுகள், அதனுடன் நான்கு மூலையிலும் எட்டுப்பட்டை மினாரெட்டுகள், நடுவே குவிமாடத்துடன் கட்டப்பட்டுள்ளது. தெற்குபுறம் உள்ள மசூதி ஹைதராபாத் நிஜாம் நவாப் மிர் அக்பர் அலிகான் சிகந்தர் ஜா அசப் அலிஜா- III, என்பவரால் பொயு 1803 – 29ல் நிமானிக்கப்பட்டது.

கல்லறையின் கீழ் பகுதி மற்றும் குவிமாடம் வெள்ளை பளிங்கு கற்களாலும் நடுப்பகுதி பசால்ட் / எரிமலைப் பாறைகொண்டு கட்டப்பட்டு சுண்ணாம்பால் பூசப்பட்டு, சிக்கலான பூவேலைப்பாடுகளுடன் உள்ளது. ஜாலிவேலப்பாடுகள் மிகவும் நுணுக்கமான முறையில் வடிவமைக்கப்பட்டு உள்ளது. குவி மாடத்தின் நடுவே எட்டுப்பட்டை காட்சிக்கூடம் / கேலரி அற்புதமான வேலைப்பாடுகளுடனான சாளரங்களூடன் கீழே உள்ள கல்லறையைக் காண வசதியாக அமைக்கப்பட்டு உள்ளது. கீழே உள்ள கல்லறைக்குச் செல்ல தெற்குப்புறம் படிக்கட்டுகளும் உள்ளன.

The mausoleum stands within an enclosed area measuring 458 x 275 meters approximately. The main entrance is on the southern side of the outer wall, and at the centre of the three remaining walls are open pavilions, which were used as Mosque, Diwan-e-Am, and Diwan-e-Khas. These buildings contain beautiful paintings of Mughal and Nizam periods.

The mausoleum is built at the centre of a raised square platform of polished red porphyritic stone provided with a railing in trellis work at the edge. Four tapering octagonal minarets with domed pavilions at the top stand freely at the corners of the square platform. It was approached by a flight of steps from all the sides earlier, but at present it has no approach on the western side as a mosque is constructed by Nizam of Hyderabad in a latter period.

The lower part of the mausoleum along with its dome are constructed with white marble, while the middle portion is of basaltic trap plastered by a fine coat of lime, rendered with marble finish and adorned with stucco work. The doorway on the south leads to an octagonal gallery with low barricaded marble screen running around the interior enabling an imposing view to the grave  of the lower level. The interior portion of the mausoleum is decorated with beautiful carvings. There are windows of marble at the corner angles. Four little chattries with corresponding minarets in each are also seen at the corners of the dome.

A number of rooms with arched domes in diamond cut design are made beneath the platform from all sides. The walls and roof of these rooms are decorated with graffiti designs.

entrance arch / building

entrance arch / building

THE GRAVE OF RABIS-Ud-DAURANL

The grave is simple, devoid of any ornamentation, surrounded with marble screens of exquisite design. A flight of steps descend in to the basement of mausoleum from the southern side, where the grave of Rabis–Ud-Dauranl is enclosed by an octagonal screen made by delicately carved marble.

MUGHAL GARDEN

The Mughal garden, Living Water Management System, Pavements which are ornamented with little kiosks, finely worked brass plated doors, Stucco floral motifs on the shell lime plaster, rank Maqbara among the best of the “Beautiful Mughal buildings of Deccan”.

MOSQUE ( NIZAM )

The mosque is built on a raised platform of tomb to its west. It is believed to have been constructed by the 3^rd Nizam of Hyderabad, Nizam Nawab Mir Akbar Ali Khan Sikander Jah Asaf Jah III during 1803-29 CE. The mosque is entered through an arched opening on the east while the side walls are closed using perforated brick work. Basalt is used as main component of construction of mosque which is further plastered with a fine coat of lime. The interior consists of rows of pillars with corner pilasters interconnected by a series of cusped arches. The whole floor area is divided into rectangles so that it can accommodate one person for offering namaz in one block. These rectangles are surmounted by an arch and can accommodate approximately 377 people at a time to offer prayer.

REF:

1.  Display boards at bibi-ka-Maqbara

2.  Archaeological Survey of India Website. ( https://web.archive.org/web/20111011201131/http://asi.nic.in/asi_monu_whs_ellora_bibi.asp )

TIMINGS

This mausoleum will kept open between 09.00 hrs to 21.00 hrs.

HOW TO REACH

This mausoleum is at Begumpura, a part of Aurangabad, in Maharashtra state.

This mausoleum is about 7 KM from Aurangabad Railway Station, 29 KM from Ellora Caves, 114 KM from Ahmednagar, 185 KM from Nashik and 343 KM from Mumbai.

Nearest railway Station and Airport Aurangabad.

LOCATION OF THE MAUSOLEUM : CLICK HERE

Ceiling dome

 View through the entrance arch / building

View through the entrance arch / building

--- OM SHIVAYA NAMA ---

Saadatullah Khan Tomb / Pachaikal Mosque, Raja Desingu Cenotaph, Delhi Gate, Alambana Fort / Arcot Fort and Abdullapuram Palace , Vellore District, Tamil Nadu.

18^th November 2018.

This post is a part of our Heritage visit to the heritage monuments in and around Vellore and Arcot, organized by the History of Vellore Group (வேலூர் வரலாறு ). Thanks to M/s Asraf Ali, Tamil Vanan,  Saravanan Raja and Dr Kumaran Shanmugam. The first 4 heritage monument's history revolves around this Arcot Fort. This post will cover a little portion of history and the present status with Photographs.

Saadatullah Khan –I and Arcot Fort..

It was a  practice to build forts in strategic locations by the Mughals, to safe guard themselves  from enemies attack in Carnatic regions. Before Mughals this Arcot area was under the control of Marathas. The Arcot was captured by the Mughal Governor, Daud Khan Panni, 1698 CE and built a fort on the banks of river Palar. Daud Khan Panni was appointed as Governor by Aurangzeb’s General Zulfiqar Ali Khan.

The Successor of Daud Khan Panni was Saadatullah Khan –I, 1710 to 1732 CE  also known as Muhammad Sayyid Sa'adatullah Khan, the last Governor of Mughal, appointed as a Nawab of Carnatic ruled from Gingee. Latter he shifted his capital to Arcot. In 1711 CE. Saadatullah Khan –I, adopted his brother Ghulam Ali Khan’s son Dost Ali Khan as his successor and he obtained a private consent of Aurangzeb. After the death of Aurangzeb, the control from Delhi weakened and started ruling independently.

SAADATULLAH KHAN TOMB ( PACHCHAI KAL MOSQUE )

Saadatullah Khan –I, was the founder of the Nawabs of Carnatic ruled Arcot between 1710 – 1732 CE and passed away on  28^th September 1732 CE at the age of 81. His body was buried inside the compound of Jamia Masjid, near Alambana Fort. A Tomb was built with green stone sourced from nearby hills. The Stones are polished and floral designs are carved. It has two entrances with two stone jolly windows on the opposite sides. Now this Tomb was identified as “Pachchaikal Mosque” ( Green stone Mosque ). The Tomb stands tall and reminds the glory of the past.

The Persian Arabic language inscription above the jolly work records the death of Malik Saadat Allah Khan in 1144 ( as per Abdul Aziz Rajput ) corresponds to 1770 CE. 

LOCATION:CLICK HERE

DELHI GATE

The fort has number of Gates, which includes the existing gate on the south bank of river Palar, believed to be built by Robert Clive in 1751 CE. Probably the gate served as a entry point for the river transport.

After the death of Saadatullah Khan –I, Arcot was ruled by 12 Nawabs of Carnatic and Arcot Nawabs. Arcot history was changed a lot during the Nawab’s rule with the constant threat from British East India Company and French to take control. The legal heir conflicts in the Arcot Nawab families also added fuel to this. Between 23^rd Sep to 14^th November 1751 CE the Arcot fort was captured by Robert Clive. The Gate where he used to stay and take decisions on the banks of River Palar was named as Delhi Gate. This to signify that the British will capture Delhi soon.

This Delhi Gate is being maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India ( ASI ). The door way was built in Mughal architecture  and steps are constructed to the Robert Clive’s Room at the top. There are two small rooms on both side of the door way.

LOCATION: CLICK HERE

 Clive's Room

Moat

ALAMBANA FORT ( ARCOT FORT )

A Moat was built around the Fort. The 15 feet width channel  built about 700 years before by the Sambuvarayar King Veerasamban ( 1306 – 1317 CE ), to carry Palar water to Cheyyar for irrigation was also served as an additional moat.

 

In 1783 CE, the fort was destroyed by Tippu Sultan during Anglo- Mysore war. The Palace in side the fort was also destroyed. The Fort built by the Daud Khan Panni, 1698 CE, was survived only for about 85 years. The Arcot Nawabs maintained a cordial relationship with British and moved to Madras and built their own palace in Chepauk area and now lives in Amir Mahal. Still they enjoys the special status in Central and State Governments.

Why this fort is being called as “Alambana Fort” is not known. A few structures are exists now. The locals calls the existing structures as Rajakulam and Rani kulam. The moat and the traces of the wall can also be seen. It was told that traces of Sambuvarayar’s old channel and one of the gate was unearthed in recent years.

The site is under the control of Archaeological Survey of India and a protection fence was erected. The structures were also reconstructed and painted. Both tanks were built with granite stones taken from some unknown temples. The stones bears the Chozha period inscriptions and some fish reliefs. An old cast Iron gun is also kept on a pedestal at the entrance. The fort area has been encroached completely and permanent structures were also built.

LOCATION: CLICK HERE

 An inscription stone in Raja Kulam

Fish reliefs

RAJA DESINGU AND RANIBAI MEMORIAL CENOTAPHS.

In Parallel with the Arcot Nawab's history, 1677 CE the Gingee was Captured by Shivaji from the Bijapur Sultans, after the Pallavas, Rashtrakutas, Vijayanagaras and Nayaks.  He strengthened the fort on the hills, which cannot be captured easily by the enemies. Shivaji’s brother Sambhaji was the successor in 1690 CE. Sambhaji was succeeded by his brother Rajaram. In 1697-98 the Gingee fort came under the control of Mughal Sultans. ( captain Mohammed Khan), after 11 months captivity. Hearing the Marata’s Rajput Captain Swaroop Singh, who played a key role against the seizure of the fort from Maratha’s side, Aurangzeb appointed Swaroop Singh as a ruler of Gingee under  Nawab Saadatullah Khan –I  and to collect Taxes.

The Thejas Singh also popularly known as Raja Desingh son of Swaroop Singh  declared himself as an independent ruler at the age of 18 in 1714 CE. Hence the Delhi  Mughal rulers directed Saadatullah Khan –I  to declare a war with a back up force from Britishers ( East India Company ). 8000 horse soldiers and 10000 sepoys / soldiers were deployed from the Nawab's side to fight with small army of Raja Desingh.   The war took place at  Kadali near Gingee and Raja Desingh was killed in the war on Oct 1714 CE. On hearing the news of her husband Raja Desingh's death, Queen Ranibai, as per Rajput’s customs, jumped in to the funeral fire. This incident shacked Saadatullah Khan –I’s heart and built two memorial Cenotaphs and named the place as Ranipet in 1721 CE.

The Cenotaphs are built in octagonal shape supported by 8 pillars on a raised platform. The dome was built with brick and floral designs are done with lime mortar. At the centre of one Cenotaph a pedam is installed with sculptures of Hindu deities, elephants, Snakes Lion etc. The base of the pedam is sculptured with a tortoise. The Cenotaph was built in islamic architecture.   Both the memorial Cenotaphs are standing in a junk yard, encroached by a private person. The cenotaphs are with zero maintenance and may collapse, if left unattended in a year or two.

ABDULLAPURAM PALACE.

On the way to Virinchipuram  from Vellore, a part of our private visit, visited this heritage structure. This is a remains of Palace, built by Abdullah Khan, who ruled Vellore.  Abdullah Khan was defeated in a war with Maratha King Tukkoji Rao and moved to this place and built a two story palace with 12 rooms.

A major part of the palace was swallowed by the road expansion and the remaining small part stands facing the threat of demolition for further road expansion. This dilapidated structure is being used as a cattle shed.

---OM SHIVAYA NAMA--- 

Kunangudi Masthan Dargah / குணங்குடி மஸ்தான் தர்கா- Royapuram, Chennai, Tamil Nadu. A Royapuram Heritage Walk.

11^th August 2018.

The visit to this dargah was a part of Royapuram heritage walk/ ride. We about 35 history enthusiasts visited on 11^th August 2018. The Dargah is on the Pichandi lane, which is a diversion on Raman Street. The lane is very narrow and congested. This Dargah exists since 1838, when Kunangaudi Masthan attained mukthi.

LIFE HISTORY OF KUNANGUDI MASTHAN.

Kunangudi Masthan, was born as Sultan Abdul Kadhar to Nainar and Fathima Beevi in a Village Kunangudi near Thondi of Ramnad district in 1792. At the age of 17, he left home to escape from the marriage with his maternal uncle’s daughter, since he was interested more in religion. He went to Kizhakarai and met Thaikka Sahib alias Sheik Abdul Khadar Lebbai and got initiated. In 1813 he left everything and became the true follower of Allah, through Sufism.

He travelled length and breadth of Tamil Nadu and wandered on hills like, Thiruparankundram, Aanalmalai, Puraamalai, Naagamalai, Sathuragiri etc. Travelled to North India also. He used meditate on hills, forests, banks of rivers and got the siddhi. He had done many miracles with the siddhi he obtained. Seeing this the people called him as Masthan. When he visited Nagoor Dargah, the doors are found closed. The Miracle happened when he sang as song, the door opened automatically.   

Finally he arrived Royapuram (Tondiarpet) and roamed like a lunatic singing songs on the streets. He ate the food offered by the people  and in turn he had done some siddhus for them. Hearing about Kunangudi Masthan, Bava Lebbai has become his disciple and built a small ashram for him in his kavanthoppu, which contained thorny bushes. He used to meditate in a small subterranean chamber of the ashram. Not only Muslims, Hindus like Ayyaswamy Mudaliar, Maha Vidwan Saravaperumaalayyar, Venkat Rayapillai, Kovalam Arunachala Mudaliar's Son Sabapathy also became the disciple to Masthan Sahib.  It was told that after meeting Aroct Navab, Kunangudi Masthan was dropped in the ashram through his private palanquin. 

He stayed and meditated for 12 years. When he knows of his departure from this materialistic world, he informed in the dream of Bava Lebbai about his departure in 1838 at the age of 47. Next day, he was found under a tree in the ashram wrapped with white cloth.  The dargah has the Samadhi of Kunangudi Masthan at the center and his disciples are  buried on the left and right side. Still people of all walks of life from various parts of Tamil Nadu visits this dargah for his blessings. It was told that only those observe sanyasam ( away from family life ) are allowed in to the meditating chamber. 

An additional piece of information. Since Kunangudi Masthan came from Thondi, the Tondiarpet ( Royapuram is adjacent to Tondiarpet ) was called initially as Thondi-ar-pet and latter turned to Tondiarpet.

HIS WORKINGS

He had composed many songs nearly 1057 on Allah considering him as a female. The important songs are “Manonmani Kanni” and “Rehman kanni”. His songs are compiled and Published by Professor Abdul Rehman in 1980. He is also praised as Muslim Thayumanavar.

LOCATION: CLICK HERE
 

---OM SHIVAYA NAMA---