Kedarnath / Kedarnath and Badrinath Yatra - MY EXPERIENCE

 22, June 2013

Since I had completed 271 out of 276 Paadal Petra Shiva Sthalangal darshans, I thought of covering the remaining 3 temples of Vada Nadu (North India) (KEDARNATH, INDRA NEELA PARVATHAM, AND ANEGATHANGAVATHAM) through some Travel agencies. I came to know that Supper Yathra Agencies, based in Kumbakonam, are arranging this type of Yathra. (Yamunotri, Gangotri, Badrinath, and Kedarnath – These places are called CHAR DHAM by the Uttarakhand State Government).  They had charged Rs 18,000 for Transport, food, and accommodation.  Joined with them on 04^th June 2013 from Chennai. I had not prepared much in advance for this Yathra like Kailash Yatra. 

Moolavar vimanam of Sri Kedarnath temple

DAY -1 04-06-06-2013, TUESDAY.

62 members of various parts of Tamil Nadu, with 6 cooks and 2 managers, started our Yatra from Chennai through Tamil Nadu Express to New Delhi. Around 22 Hrs.

DAY 2, 05-06-2013, WEDNESDAY.

The day was spent completely on the Train. The temperature was too hot. The train crosses Andhra Pradesh, Maharashtra, and Madhya Pradesh. There is no rain, and the trees are found dry in the Andhra Pradesh area. When the train passed through the forest of Madhya Pradesh, we could see some greenery. The train crossed 7 tunnels on the way. It was pleasant to see the orange trees on both sides of the track after Nagpur. 

DAY – 3, 06-06- 2013, THURSDAY.

On reaching New Delhi, the day’s plan was to see Akshardham and proceed to Rishikesh. The train arrived in New Delhi late by 2 Hours. After visiting Akshardham, we proceeded to Rishikesh. On the way, there was a dust storm, which I had never experienced in my lifetime. Then it was raining heavily with the wind. Most of the signboards were uprooted and fallen down on the road. At one place one of the eucalyptus tree branches was fallen on a Maruti wagon R car, which was damaged very heavily. Luckily, nobody was hurt in the car.  When the rain began, the ladies started chanting the OM NAMASIVAYA Manthiram, and the rain stopped, Incidentally, the day was a pradosham day.

DAY – 4,  07-06-2013, FRIDAY.

We spent the whole day in Rishikesh. We went to the other side of the river Bhagirathi through the Laxman Jhula bridge. Had a dip in the river, and the water was too cold with mud. The water current was also too high. Went for the darshan of Lakshmi Narayan.   We have seen more than 600-year-old Athi, Aal, and Arasa maram (Peepal Tree), which belong to the Lord Shiva, Brahma, and Vishnu's side Lakshmi Narayan Temple premises. There was a formation of Ganapathy in the Arasa maram/Peepal Tree, which was very attractive. Also had the darshan of Lord Shiva on the banks of the river.

  

In the evening, we went to the Sri Venkateswara Swamy and Sri Chandramouleeswarar temples, which were constructed and managed by Tirupathi Thirumala Devasthanam.

Laxman Jhula - Bridge

Our group ladies

Achi (Sister of Mr. Nachiappan, who is working  with Green Star Fertilizers)  is doing pooja to River Ganga

Formation of Ganapathy in Arasa maram

Shiva Temple on the banks of river Bhagirathi

Shiva temple on the banks of river Ganga (Actually Bakirathy)

Moolavar vimanam of Shiva Temple maintained by Tirupati Tirumala Devasthanam

Sri Venkateswara Swamy Temple maintained by T T D

Rajagopuram of the Shiva Temple 

DAY – 5, 08-06-2013. SATURDAY.

We spent the whole day on the bus to reach the Ranachatti, which is about a half-hour's journey before Yamunotri. The journey was too tough, and the road was too bad (Almost all the Ghat roads that we crossed were too bad).

DAY – 6, 09-06-2013, SUNDAY.

Today’s plan was to go to Yamunotri, which is the starting point of the River YAMUNA. We were dropped at the base of the hill, and Yamunotri is 7 km from the base. Even though I would have liked to walk, due to the nonavailability of time, I took a horse, which charged me Rs 1000. After taking a hot water bath, we had the darshan of Yamunotri. On my return, I went for a walk, which took me 1.5 hours. Up to the top, the steps were constructed, and the width is small. Walkers have to negotiate with the upcoming, ongoing horses and dolly.

YAMUNOTRI

Yamunotri Main temple

View of Himalayan hills from Yamunotri

Pilgrims crossing the river Yamuna

A Sadhu is performing a pooja

(People are also transported through this type of dolly also)

DAY – 7. 10-06-2013, MONDAY

We spent most of our time on the bus to reach UTTARKASHI. In the evening, we went to Kasi Viswanathar Temple (Sri Vinayagar, Sakshi Gopal, Markandeyar Lingam are in the temple complex) and a Kali temple on the banks of the river Bhagirathi. The flow of the river was very much threading.

DAY – 8, 11-06-2013, TUESDAY.

Today’s plan was to visit Gangotri Temple, which is the starting point of River Ganga (actually  Bhagirathi after joining with Mandakini river called River Ganga from Haridwar ). The bus went near the temple (About 2 km). On the way, we had the hot water bath at Ganga, otherwise called Viyasarkund. There was a long Qqqqq for the darshan. It took us almost 2 hours for the darshan. There are separate sannadhis for Shiva and Ganapathy, with Siddhi and Buddhi.

GANGOTRI

View of Gangothri main temple

Mr. Raju, his wife and Achi

UTTARKASHI

Moolavar vimanam of Uthira Kasi Sri Viswanathar temple

Ambal temple

Front view of the main shrine

Abhishekam's water of the Moolavar is falling on the Lingam through Rishaba's mouth.

Natural Vinayagar without chiseled

Hanuman Temple

Kali Temple

A Rajasthan private Kali temple and the lingas are installed in a row 

DAY – 9, 12-06-2013, WEDNESDAY

There was a change in the original program. There was a strike by the horse and dolly owners against bringing pilgrims by helicopter for 3 days. Hence, we changed our route to BADRINATH. We stayed at Pipilkot. There was heavy rain at Pipilkot during the nighttime with thunder and lightning.  On the way, we had the problem of a bus tire puncture.

DAY – 10, 13-06-2013, THURSDAY

Since there was a systematic allotment of buses to climb, we started a little earlier. On the way, we had the darshan of Sri Narasimhar, which is one of the 108 Divya Desam at JOSHIMATH. From Joshimath, our guide had shown me the back side of Indira Neela Parvatham (Ie, the hill opposite Sri Badrinath Temple ).

JOSHIMATH

This part of this post was separated and written as a separate post with more details under 108 Divya Desams. Please click this link for the updated post. 

Sri Narasimha Perumal Temple - one of the 108 Vaishnava temples at Joshimath

View of the Himalayan Mountains from Joshimath 

BADRINATH

There was a long queue (about 1.5 km) for the darshan of Lord Sri Badrinarayanan. It took us nearly 2 1/2 hours for the darshan. There are sannadhi for Anjenear and  Mahalakshmi. The temple construction is a combination of both South Indian and North Indian architecture, with dwarapalakas and bas-reliefs on the pillars in the inner mandapam. From history, the temple was constructed by Adi Shankaracharya, and the pooja is still conducted by the Namboothiris from Kerala.

The hill on the opposite side of the Badrinath Temple is called INDRANEELA PARVATHAM. We could see the colour difference compared to other hills during the day time also (It will be in blue colour during the early morning).  It was believed that Indran had worshiped this hill as Lord Shiva.

This part of this post was separated and written as a separate post with more details under 108 Divya Desams. Please click this link for the updated post. 

 

An ice-covered mountain at the back of  Shri Badrinath temple

Shri Badrinath Temple 

DAY – 11, 14-06-2013, FRIDAY.

Today’s plan is to reach & stay at Rambara, about 6 km from Gaurikund, the base of KEDARNATH.  We stayed at Hotel Nava Durga at Sitapur, very near to Rambara.  We three, Mr. Sridhar of PNB, T. Nagar, and Mr. Rajendran LIC from Mayavaram, want to go to Kedarnath by a walk. It was a 14 km one-way uphill. So we started around 14 Hrs from the lodge but were able to reach around 19.00 hours to GAURIKUND due to a Traffic jam. The GAURIKUND, the base of the hill, is also a Paadal Petra Shiva Sthalam. After taking a hot water bath in Gaurikund, we started our trekking around 19.45 Hrs (Even though GAURIKUND is a Paadal Petra Shiva sthalam, we could not find a separate Shiva Temple there). 

The path was too wide and smooth with steps. Street lights were ON. While we are going up, the horses are returning after the day's hard work. Very few people  (about 20)  undertook the climb in the night. After two hours of trekking the rain started. The 10 Rupees raincoat gave way to water and my shirt became very wet, With rain and night chillness hands started shivering. No shops were kept open for Tea. There was no shelter on the way, and there was no sign of rain to stop. Due to rainwater, the path became too slippery, and it was difficult to proceed further.

DAY – 12, 15-06-2013, SATURDAY.

We could take a rest for about 5 minutes in a shelter and continue our trek. Mr Rajendran was exhausted, and he could not match our speed. At the final leg, he climbed to the shrine with hands on my shoulder. It was 03.45 when we reached the Shrine of Lord Sri Kedarnath. Joined in the q for the darshan and came out of temple premises around 07.30 Hrs. Still, it was drizzling and sometimes raining.

It is believed that the Kedarnath temple was built by the Pandavas. Moorthams of Pandavar is installed in the inner prakaram. The temple was reconstructed by Aadhi Sankarar. It is also believed that Adi Shankara was last seen in the valley of Kedarnath.

Then we went to Jeeva Samadhi of Adi Shankara and had the opportunity of doing abhishekam to a Lingam there along with the priests. In the meantime, Mr Rajendran complained of pain on both sides of the stomach below the chest.  We rushed to a doctor and got medicine. He was sent downhill through a dolly. On return, self and Mr Sridhar alone climbed down. On the way, while we are climbing down, our co-yatris are going up for the darshan. At that time, there was no rain. By 12.30 hours, we reached the Gaurikund, and all three reached the lodge around 16.00 Hrs.  All the Co Yathris returned to the lodge safely around 00.30 Hrs, and there was heavy rain throughout the night. Early in the morning, we happened  to watch the river flowing with mud and slush and also boulders rolling down from the roadside toward the river

KEDARNATH

Moolavar vimanam of Sri Kedarnath temple

Mandapam view

Front view of Sri Kedarnath Temple

Rishabam in front of Main temple

Self and Mr Sridhar - Both climbed the hill (14 km) by walk.

Ice-covered mountains - back side of Kedarnath Temple 

PC - Web site 

 Same moolavar vimanam after the disaster- No compound wall on the back, no railings, no shops in front, front steps are not visible, q complex is completely washed out, do not know the fate of Adi Sankara's jeeva samadhi.

 

INDRANEELA PARVATHAM

The backside view of Indraneela Parvatham from Joshimuth.

Indraneela Parvatham - opposite to Sri Badrinath Temple

 Indraneela Parvatham - opposite to Sri Badrinath Temple

Indraneela Parvatham - opposite to Sri Badrinath Temple

Indraneela Parvatham - opposite to Sri Badrinath Temple

Indraneela Parvatham - opposite to Sri Badrinath Temple 

Indraneela Parvatham - opposite to Sri Badrinath Temple 

Indraneela Parvatham - opposite to Sri Badrinath Temple 

ANEGATHANGAPATHAM ( GAURIKUND )

Hot water is falling from the mouth of Nandhi at Gaurikund 

DAY – 13, 16-06-2013, SUNDAY.

We are supposed to start in Haridwar today. Already there was a long traffic jam in front of our Lodge. As planned, we vacated the lodge and boarded the bus. The bus moved to about 300 meters and stopped. The landslide occurred a few meters from the back of our vehicle, and the vehicles were caught in between so that we could not move front or back.  It has been raining since night. We could hear the loud sound of the flowing water in the river like a jet engine. We parked our three buses in a safe place and waited for the front vehicles to move. We do not know the disaster that happened in the GAURIKUND and KEDARNATH (KEDARNATH). There was no communication, and all the cell phone towers were down. We stayed 3 days and 2 nights on the bus. Still, it was raining.

DAY – 14, 17-06-2013, MONDAY.

Hoping for some sign of relief today. But still raining. Understand that the traffic was hit due to a road washed away by the rain, and it will be rectified soon (How soon, god only knows). Also, the rectification of the road could be done only if the rain stops.  In the evening, the rain stopped, and the moon appeared in the sky, with a hope to move from there.

DAY – 15, 18-06-2013, TUESDAY.

There was no rain today, and we could see the moon in the sky. Also, we did not know about the disaster that happened at Kedarnath and Gaurikund. Understand that the road repair will take another day or two. So we got off the bus and went to the old lodge. They increased the tariff which we paid. We could stay in the lodge for about 3 hours to stretch our legs. The traffic started moving. So we vacated our lodge and boarded the bus. The prices of the commodities were shot up three to four times by a shop owner, and the shop was closed the next day due to stock out. Peoples has to wait for 1/2 hour for tea. (Only one shop was available near our parking place).

After we traveled for about 10 km, the bus once again stopped. This time, we understand that the road after PATA was completely washed away. The bulldozer does not have the diesel to run. They borrowed the diesel from the stranded vehicles. Again, we spent one more night and a day on the bus.  Our Yathra services can provide us with food at least two times a day. They got a gas cylinder for about Rs 4000 and vegetables from Rs 150 to 200 per  Kilo from the town PATA. We could not get the drinking water.  Most of us used the Aruvi (Falls) water to drink. It was the 5^th day that nobody had taken a bath or never had a good sleep. The Mobiles are silent for the consecutive 4th day.

It was worse for the passengers who came by car without preparation. It was a pathetic scene to see the people roaming for food; some even begged.

DAY – 16, 19-06-2013, WEDNESDAY.

We expect some good news today. The helicopters are busy flying. We thought it was transporting pilgrims to the top of the hill. (After crossing the PATA,  we are shocked to see that the helicopters are busy bringing the dead bodies of the  pilgrims), We continued our journey after 14.00 Hrs. The washed-out road immediately after PATA was diverted through a temporary road formed, and the traffic was allowed to proceed further.

On reaching GUPTAKASHI, to our bad luck 20 seater buses were not allowed to proceed further. (May be allowed on Thursday), Accommodated in a lodge and the amount was paid by us. Spent our night hoping for some good news, at least, the next day.

DAY – 17, 20-06-2013, THURSDAY.

At the dawn of the day, BSNL towers started functioning after a gap of 5 days. We informed our relatives of our whereabouts.  There was an emotional moment at that time. Everybody was weeping over the phone. It was a heart-touching moment to see.  The disaster that happened at Kedarnath and Gaurikund is known to us only from relatives, who were telecasted through TV channels.

We had received the good news of proceeding further through the same vehicle. At 10.00 hrs, we started our journey, but we were diverted through the Ghat route to Rishikesh, bypassing Joshimath, Uttarkashi, and Devapryagai. (After reaching Rishikesh, we understood the regular route was damaged very heavily.  We had seen landslips occur in many places, and small bridges were washed away.

At one place, the Yathris were asked to get down from the bus to cross the alternate road laid.  On the way, we could see the NDTV and TV 18 people proceed to the spots with the National Disaster Relief Force (NDRF ). The relief personnel are rushing after 4 days of disaster on the road. On the way to one village, the people offered cool drinks, Tea, and Food. When we crossed the Tehri Dam site, they offered food to the Yathris. At 00.30 Hrs, we reached Rishikesh and stayed at the same Chatram, where we left our unwanted luggage. We understand that the bus services from Rishikesh to New Delhi via Haridwar will resume only on Friday.  

Now the problem of reaching Chennai popped out. Since we missed both the reserved trains from Haridwar and New Delhi, we are very much worried about how to proceed further to Chennai from New Delhi. Also, we have received the good news that arrangements have been made to shift pilgrims from New Delhi to Chennai by flight, through the Tamil Nadu Government, and an order was issued by Chief Minister J. Jayalalitha through our relatives who were watching TV.

DAY – 18, 21-06-2013, FRIDAY.

Started from Rishikesh to New Delhi by Bus around 07.30 Hrs and reached New Delhi around 14.15 Hrs. We were provided with lunch, dinner, and accommodation in TAMIL NADU ILLAM. A team of 3 medical Doctors attended to us and gave us medicines. We could not express our feelings. Thanks to the TAMIL Nadu Government and the officials in New Delhi for taking care of us. I had a fever that night, and the fever subsided in the morning.

DAY – 19, 22-06-2013, SATURDAY

Again, we have received the good news of sending us to Chennai by flight. Out of 70 people in our group, 41 were sent on the 06.00 Hrs flight, and 29 were accommodated in AIR India Flight 492 at 10.00 Hrs. We landed in Chennai around 13.15 hours, and once again, we were provided with lunch. The Tamil Nadu Government had made elaborate arrangements to send the balance of pilgrims to their native places.

After reaching Chennai, I could not recover immediately from the shock that I felt/the problems that I faced and experienced during this Yathra. I felt Chennai was strange to me. When I went to sleep, I felt that I was still sleeping on the bus, and the ghat roads and Himalayan hills came into my dream. Hope to recover soon.

HIMALAYAN TSUNAMI

Sunset - during Travel on a train

Landslip

The flooded river of Baakirathy

Heavy flow in the Baakirathy River

People are waiting to remove the boulder that fell on the road.

Clouds are covering the mountains - rain may start at any time once again.

Tehri Dam

Landslip on the way

Landslip on the way

Landslip on the way

Landslip on the way

An alternate road was laid  by using JCBs and bulldozers at PATA

Helicopters are busy in the relief works

The helipad was also damaged due to rain

                                                     The helipad was also damaged due to rain 

                                                               Landslip on the way

Landslip on the way

Landslip on the way

Landslip on the way

Landslip on the way

Pilgrims are crossing the damaged road, and only buses without passengers are allowed to cross

Pilgrims are crossing the damaged road, and only buses without passengers are allowed to cross

Pilgrims are crossing the damaged road, and only buses without passengers are allowed to cross

Sunset at Tehri dam 

---OM SIVAYA NAMAHA:---