30th
June 2019.
I was planning to attend a marriage on 30 June 2019 in Thoothukudi, where I have worked for more than a quarter century. Taking this opportunity, I decided to visit Kalugumalai. Although I had visited Kalugumalai when I was in Thoothukudi, this time, I wanted to visit from a heritage point of view. At Kalugumalai, I was fortunate to Join the Ramanathapuram Archaeological Research Foundation's Heritage Walk, organized by Mr Rajaguru.
From
the inscriptions, the Big Village Kalugumalai was called Peruneccuram, and the
hill was called Araimalai. Araimalai was in Neccuranadu in the sub-division
of Mudi Konda Cholavalanadu of Rajaraja Pandi Nadu. Kalugumalai has the Vettuvan
Koil, Jain monuments and Sri Kalugasalamoorthy temple Heritage sites. The
details of Vettuvan Koil are being written in this post and the rest will be in the
subsequent posts.
According to the inscriptions,, the Vettuvan Koil was excavated in the the 8th Century during the Pandyan Maran Chadaiyan Varaguna-I. The inscription also mentions the Pandya Kings Parantaka Nedunchezian and Parantaka Veera Narayanan. The Vettuvan Koil is unfinished, yet its beauty is uncomparable to that of any other Temple. Unlike the stone temples,, this Vettuvan Koil was excavated on the east side of the Kalugumalai to a depth of 7.5 Meters from top to bottom.
The
Koil consists of a sanctum Sanctorum and an artha mandapa. A recent period
Installed Vinayagar is in the sanctum Sanctorum. Outside the sanctum wall
with adhisthana is not completed. The Koil starts with prastaram. The prastaram is of kapotha style with Karnakood with niches. The
Vimana is of two tiers. The second tier starts with Yazhivari. Nandhi / Rishaba
are in the 2nd tier on all 4 corners. The Kapotha on both tiers are with Kodikarukku
and maiya karukku. In front of Nasi koodu Various deities are carved. They include Dakshinamurthy playing
Mridangam (a unique feature of this Koil / Temple), Brahma, Vishnu, Narasimhar, Uma
Maheswara, Apsaras, Devas, etc.
The Bhootha ganas are extraordinary sculptures. Each is unique in style, reaction, and facial expression. Some play musical instruments, some with snakes, and some play with each other by pulling their heads and ears. Some wear accessories and beards. Some eat, some laugh, and some cry with big mustaches. Bhoothaganas include ladies, too.
The Sikaram is of 8 face carved with karukku and Mahanasi. The Top of the Sikaram consists of Padmam and Kannadhi chattam. The stupi is missing.
The
Temple / Koil architecture is a little different from the Pallava architecture.
By seeing the sculptures of this Temple, it may be concluded that this may not be possible by an ordinary
sculptor and he might have possessed an extraordinary talent. There are two legends associated with this temple named Vettuvan Koil. The
Vettuvan Koil is under the care of the Tamil Nadu Archaeological Department.
LEGEND
A sculptor father and son went to a temple festival and the son got missed there in the
crowd. The lone father came back and started doing the Jain sculptures. After
some years, the Son, who possessed his father’s qualities started this temple.
On seeing this the people told the father about the talent of the young
sculptor. The father got angry and threw
his chisel, which cut the young Sculptor and died. On seeing this the young sculptor, the Old Sculptor recognizes
his son wept. Hence this Koil was called Vettuvan Koil.
HOW TO REACH:
The
place Kalugumalai is on the Kovilpatti to Sankarankovil bus route. All the
buses will stop at Kalugasalamoorthy Temple Bus stop from there the Vettuvan Koil is
about a KM.
Kalugumalai
is about 22 KM from Kovilpatti, 105 KM from Thoothukudi and 70 KM from
Tirunelveli.
The nearest railway station is Kovilpatti.
LOCATION OF THE TEMPLE: CLICK HERE
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