Arulmigu Subramaniya Swamy Temple / Tiruchendur Murugan Temple / திருச்செந்தூர் முருகன் கோவில், Thirucheeralaivai / Tiruchendur / Thiruchendur, Thoothukudi District, Tamil Nadu.

30^th June 2019.

This Thiruchendur Arulmigu Subramaniya Swamy is always close to my heart. During my 25 years of stay at SPIC, Thoothukudi (Tuticorin), I have been to this temple “N” several times. During the 80s, we, in a group, used to go to Thiruchendur, once a month, on a walk. It was a golden day. On 30^th June 2019, when I went to Thoothukudi to attend one of my friend's daughter’s marriage, I did not want to miss a chance to visit the Thiruchendur Murugan Temple after a long period.  With a few structural  changes outside and the “Q” system arrangement, my Murugan looks cute.

West side Rajagopuram with South side entrance Gopuram

The Inscriptions and the Sangam literature, Tolkappiyam, Purananuru, Agananuru, Thirumurugatrupadai, and later period Pamban Swamigal mention this place, Thiruchendur, in different names. This place was called “Thirucheeralaivaai” (கடல் அலையின் வாயில்), Thiruchenthil, Thiruchenthiyur, Jayanthipuram, Chinthipuram, Thirupuvanamathevi Chaturvedi Mangalam. The name Thiruchendur came after Arunagirinathar mentioned it in his hymn. 

Moolavar : Arulmigu Subramaniya Swamy, also called as 

                Thiruchendur Murugan

Some of the salient features of this temple are…

The temple faces east with two prakaras. The entrance is from the South side. Starting from the South side entrance, both prakaras are completely covered. The 9-tier Rajagopuram is on the West (which will be opened for a day in a year for Lord Murugan’s procession, and devotees are not allowed through this entrance), and a small 3-tier Rajagopuram is on the east side between the outer and inner prakara. The sanctum sanctorum consists of the Sanctum, antarala, and ardha mandapam. In koshtam, Guru Dakshinamurthy, Bala Subramanya Swamy, and Mayura Nathar. 

A Pancha Linga Sannadhi is abutting the north side of the sanctum with a separate entrance. A Dwajasthambam / Kodimaram is in the 2^nd praharam, and another Dwajasthambam / Kodimaram with the peacock is in the inner praharam.

In the inner prakara, Bhairavar, Saneeswara, Natarajar, Kattabomman worshiped Jakkamma, Sri Shanmugar Chandrasekarar, Somaskandar, Chandikeswarar, Devasena, Sri Valli, Shasti mandapa, 63var, Sankara Narayanan, Kasi Viswanathar, Visalakshi, Vedapureeswarar, Ekambaranathar.

In the outer praharam, a Dwajasthambam, Sri Venkatachalapathy in a Cave, Sthala purana photos, Vallabha Ganapati, Arunagirinathar, Vanmikanathar, Jalakandeswarar, Arunachaleswarar with Unnamulai Amman, Thiru Kalatheeswarar, Uma Maheswarar, Somanathar with Meenakshi, Thirumoola Nathar, Aanmalinga, Manonmani Amman, Banukeswarar, Sura Samhara moorthy, Sakthi Ganapathy, 108 Lingam, Vallabhai Ganapathy, and Kodimara Kalyana Vinayagar.

Outside the Temple are the Mandapas, Nazhi kinaru, Golden Chariot, and Valli Cave.

The 15th Century Saint Arunagirinathar has sung hymns on Murugan of this temple.

விறல்மார னைந்து மலர்வாளி சிந்த
     மிகவானி லிந்து                                ......வெயில்காய
மிதவாடை வந்து தழல்போல வொன்ற
     வினைமாதர் தந்தம்                              ...... வசைகூற
குறவாணர் குன்றி லுறைபேதை கொண்ட
     கொடிதான துன்ப                                    ...... மயல்தீர
குளிர்மாலை யின்க ணணிமாலை தந்து
     குறைதீர வந்து                                    ...... குறுகாயோ
மறிமானு கந்த இறையோன்ம கிழ்ந்து
     வழிபாடு தந்த                                        ...... மதியாளா
மலைமாவு சிந்த அலைவேலை யஞ்ச
     வடிவேலெ றிந்த                                      ...... அதிதீரா
அறிவால றிந்து னிருதாளி றைஞ்சு
     மடியாரி டைஞ்சல்                           ..... களைவோனே
அழகான செம்பொன் மயில்மேல மர்ந்து
     அலைவாயு கந்த                                 ...... பெருமாளே.

LEGEND OF THE TEMPLE:

As per the Legend, this is one of the Arupadai Veedu, where Asura Surapadman was killed by Thiruchendur Murugan. The Asura Surapadman gave frequent troubles to the Devas. When they complained to Lord Shiva,  he created 6 children through his third eye. Sri Parvathi made them into a single boy with 6 faces and 12 hands. Also, she gave the lance / Vel to fight with Surapadman. After 5 days of fighting with Surapadman, Lord Muruga killed him on the 6^th day. Surapadman transformed into a mango tree, and the lance pierced into two; one piece turned into a Peacock, and another piece turned into Cock. Lord Muruga took the Peacock as Vahana and cock as his flag.

THE HISTORY OF IDOLS: 

As per the legend, the Dutch East India Company used the temple as a garrison between 1646 to 1648 CE, during the conflict with the Portuguese. As per the order of Madurai Nayaks, they vacated the temple and took away the Urchavar (Thinking that the idols were made of gold)  and Nataraja. In the middle of the sea, the ship that carried the idols met the gale and storm. So the Dutch officers  dropped the Idols into the sea, and immediately the sea became calm. Lord Muruga came in the dream of Vadamalaiyappa Pillai, an ardent devotee, where the idols were dropped. With the help of Adhitha Nadar, the idols were retrieved and installed. These story photos/ paintings are hung in the outer praharam.

Painting of the Dutch looting the idols

Actual History of the Idols: 

But the actual story from the Dutch records was different. They took away the idols to Dutch Ceylon and asked for 1 () lakh reals as ransom to return back. In 1650 CE,  A delegation of Hindus and Muslims of Kayalpattinam went to Ceylon to retrieve. In the meantime, Ravi Varma of Travancore had a secret deal to buy the idols. In 1651 CE, the idols were sent back to Kayalpattinam along with the merchant Van der Meijden, offering to sell for  30000 to 25000 reals. Since nobody came forward for that amount, the merchant returned to Galle of Ceylon. After that, the Dutch records are silent. From the 1653 CE inscription in the mandapa,  the idols were installed back in the presence of Thirumalai Nayak and Vadamalaiyappa Pillai, then Governor of Tirunelveli.

HISTORY & TEMPLE ARCHITECTURE:

Since the actual period of Construction is not known, it is believed that the temple was built by the Pandyas & Cheras with sandstone during the 6^th to 8^th centuries. The earliest inscription of 875 CE belongs to Varaguna Pandian.

This inscription of Pandya King Varaguņa-Mahārāja registers the gift by the king, of 1,400 kāśu for meeting the various annual requirements of the temple of Subrahmanya-bhatarar. The money was invested by the king's three officers, Iruppaikkudi- kilavan, Sättamperuman, and Alarzürnáttukkon, with the administrative bodies of various villages, which were required to pay annual interest in grain to the temple at two kalam per käsu per year. This inscription also records the punishment as thandam, but it is not followed.

The record is dated in the year 13, opposite to a certain year (lost), of the king's reign. The amount of 1,400 käsu is stated to have been made over on the 500th day (line 7). The inscription starts as ….

First slab, first face.

1. …………. ஸ்ரீ கொ வரகுண மாராயற்கு யாண்டு
2. ………………தனெதிர் பதின்மூன்று இவ்வாண்டு திரு
3. …………. சுப்பிரம(ண்) ணிய படாரர் உபா….

Ref: 

This inscription is inscribed in two slabs, 210 lines (two slabs on both sides - 4 faces). This is recorded in the SII Volume –XIV and published in Epigraphia Indica, Vol. XXI, pp. 101. 

 

 Pandya inscriptions

 Pandya inscriptions

The front mandapa, prakara, was extended in the 16^th - 17^th Century by Vijayanagara Nayaks. In 1650 CE, the Rajagopuram was constructed by Thiruvaduthurai Adheenam. Further expanded by Maharaja Marthanda Varma (1729-58 CE). 

The structures were heavily damaged due to sea salt-laden wind and seawater, since the sea waves used to hit the temple when they were rough. With the effort of Mouna Swami, Desika Murti Swami, and Kasi Swami, the sandstones were replaced with granite stones. The work continued for about 72 years, and a lot of money was spent. Finally, the work was completed, and Kumbhabhishekam was performed in 1941 CE. Further Kumbhabhishekam was performed in the years 1959, 1971, and 1983.

In one of the inscriptions, it was mentioned that Moolavar Vigraham was replaced in 1984 CE by the trustees Thirumalai kozhunthu Pillai and S Vedha Murthy Mudaliar, and paradista ashta bandhana kumbhabhishekam was performed. In that inscription, Chozha mandalam, Chera mandalam, Thondai mandalam, and Eezhamandalam are mentioned.

The inscription of Moolavar changed in 1984. 

During the Thirumalai Nayak period in  1648 CE, the Thiruchendur temple was looted of the Idols and jewels by the Dutch. Vadamalaya Pillai was the representative of Thirumalai Nayak during that period. As per the Valli Amman Cave inscription, after 1565 CE, with the permission of the King, he excavated the well and built a mandapa. For regular worship, an endowment was created by Muthiah Josiyar. The inscription reads as...

1] முருகன் அருளால் நட

2] ந்து வருகின்றன கந்

3] த கடவுளாருக்கு வல்

4] லியை மணம் செய்ய வே

5] னுமென்று சம்புவை

6] ஆறாதித்தனள் உடனே லிங்

7] சுரூபிலாயினர் லிங்

8] க விழவின்றாகிய சிவபெரு

9] மான் சதாதேவனாய்ப்

10] பூஜை செய்யும் இடத்துக்

11] குவல்லி ஒளிக்கும் மவ

12] ள் நாடென பெயர் தங்கிய

13] இந்த தலஸ்தலத்தில் ஸ்தல புறா

14] ணத்தில் இருக்கின்றன [இ

15] தை]1580 [வருசத்தி]ல் திருச்

16] செந்தூரில் றாஜர் கல்

17] பிச்ச கட்டளை ஏற்படுத்

18] திய சமையம் முத்த

19] ய அவதானியை கல்

20] பிச்சுப் பாத நமஸ்காரம்

21] செய்ய ஏற்படுத்தினர்

22] அவரால் பிறிதிக்கு கொ

23] ண்டு வந்த இதை [மேற்படி]வ

24] வகையாறாக்கள் முத்தைய்ய

25] ஜோஸியன் கந்த

26] ப்பிறவு உத்தரவினை

27] படி யிந்தபடிக்கி

28] கிணறு சகல மண்ட

29] பம் யிவை தயாநி

30] தி முருகன் அருளா

31] நித்திய பூஜை

32] யும டைந்து வருகி

33] றது உ வைகாசி

34] ………..

Ref:

1. South Indian Inscriptions Volume XIV and 

2. Epigrapica India Volume -XXI

     

 Once wells were there along the east wall- The Pandya King's daughter took a bath and changed her face from a Horse to a Beautiful face- the inscription stone. 

FESTIVALS:

Apart from daily poojas, Annual festivals like Vaikasi Visakam, a 10-day Avani festival, the 7-day Skanda Sasti festival, the 12-day Masi festival, and Panguni Uthiram  are celebrated grandly.

 Sura Samhara Moorthy

TEMPLE TIMINGS:

The temple will be kept open between  05.00 hrs to 21.00 hrs without a break. Male Devotees are not allowed to wear a banyan or shirt. (This practice may have been followed since the 18th-century Maharaja Marthanda Varma period, who made a contribution to this temple).

CONTACT DETAILS:

The landline numbers 04639 -242221, 242270, and 242271 may be contacted for further details.

E-mail address: tiruchendurmurugan@tnhrce.org

Temple website: http://www.tiruchendurmurugantemple.tnhrce.in/festival.html

HOW TO REACH:

Bus facilities are available from all the district headquarters.

Thiruchendur is about 40 km from Thoothukudi, the district headquarters, 55 km from Tirunelveli, 180 km from Madurai, and 640 km from Chennai.

The nearest Railway Station is Thiruchendur, and another express train is Tirunelveli.

The nearest airports: Thoothukudi and Madurai.

LOCATION OF THE TEMPLE: CLICK HERE

 

East side Rajagopuram

 West side Rajagopuram with real Peacock & Peahen 

 West side Rajagopuram with Mandapam

 Surapadman

Prayer cloths tied along the Valli Gugai / Cave path 

 ---OM SHIVAYA NAMA---