Vijayalaya Choleeswaram / Pazhiyili Eswaram / Pathinen Bhoomi Vinnagaram / Jwarahareswarar Rock Cut Cave Temple / நார்த்தாமலை விஜயாலய சோழீஸ்வரம் / Narthamalai, Pudukkottai District, Tamil Nadu.

The second visit to this Narthamalai group of structural and Rock cut cave Temples on Narthamalai was a part of Heritage Visit to temples around Keeranur in Pudukkottai District, organized by “Yaaooyakay – யாஊயாகே” group on 2^nd and 3^rd, October 2021.

 

This hill is one of the group of 9 hills of Pudukottai ( Mela-malai, Kottaimalai, Kadambar-malai, Paraiyan-malai, Uvachchan-malai, Aluruttimalai, Bommadi-malai, Man-malai and Pon-malai. Mela-malai or Western hill is also called Samanar-malai and some times Sivanmalai ). Another saying is that, this hill was originally called as Nagarathar malai, which was turned to Narthamalai, dominated by the Nattukottai Nagarathars ( Chettiars ), who are involved in business. The inscription at Kadambar Koil mentions this Vanika kuzhu (group ), as Thisaiyaayirathu Ainnurruvar. ( Experts are of the opinion that Thisaiyaayirathu Ainnurruvar was a part of Nattukottai Nagarathars ). It is believed that the stones required for Thanjavur Rajarajecharam was sourced from these hills.

The Narthamalai Temple complex is at the ¾ of the Hill consists of  Vijayalaya Chozheswaram, a structural Temple built by Mutharaiyar  during 9^th Century and Two Rock cut cave temples for Shiva and Vishnu, which  houses “Pathinen Bhoomi Vinnagaram” and “Pazhiyizhi Eswarar shrine”. In addition to this there are two unfinished small caves.

As per the inscriptions this place was called as Rettapadikonda Chozhavalanattu annalvayil Kootrathu Telugukulakalapuram. During Kulothunga Period this place was called as Kulothunga Chozha Pattinam. 

VIJAYALAYA CHOZHEECHURAM / Viajayalaya Chozheeswaram.

The temple is opposite to Pazhiyil Eswarar Rock cut cave temple. Facing west with a Nandi in front.  Might have a mandapam initially but only pillars exists now. The sanctum sanctorum consists of sanctum, antarala and ardha mandapam with 6 pillars, built in Dravidian style. Pallava period dwarapalakas are at the entrance of ardha mandapam. Shiva Linga is in the round sanctum.

ARCHITECTURE

The sanctum sanctorum was constructed in round shape with a passage like santharam for circumambulation and outer is in square shape.  A 3 tier vesara Vimana is on the sanctum sanctorum.

The Adhisthana is with Upana, Jagathi, muppattai kumuda, kampu, Kandam ( with Kanda pathas ), kampu, pattikai and Kampu.  The Adhisthana is of simple Padabandha adhisthana.

The Bitti or the wall comprises of Karnapathi, Salilantharam, upa karnapathi, salilantharam, salaipathi, sailantharam, upa karnapathi and Karna pathi. The Brahmakanda pilasters forms the pathi with Thadi, Kumbha and Palakai. The Pothiyals are of Viri and Vettu pothiyals.

Prastaram comprises of Utharam, Vajanam, Valabi, kapotham and Viyalavari.Kodipalai and Nasikoodus are in the kapotham. Bhuta ganas and Annas are in the Valabi.

The Hara of first tier comprises of Karnakoodu, Panjaras, Sala and Nasi koshtas forms as a garland. Since there is a gap/ space between first and second tier, this space is called as Alintham and Hara is called as Anarpitham.

The Second tier Karnakoodus and sala forms the hara.  Upana to 2^nd tier, the vimana is built in square shape and 2^nd tier kirugabindi and prastaram are in round / vritha shape. This is followed to match the round / Vrutha shape sanctum sanctorum. Mutharaiyar style Apsaras are in all Karnakoodu and salas.

The second tier kirugabindi forms the third tier floor with thala rishabas. The Vimana consists of Vrutha Vethigai, Greevam, Sikaram, and Stupi. There are 4 greeva Koshtas, Maha nasis and 4 Anu nasis are in the sikaram.  Antarala is not shown on the outer wall.

The ardha mandapam was supported by 6 pillars, similar to Pallava style. The remains of paintings are on the north and south side walls. Mutharaiyar period Dwarapalakas are at the entrance of ardha mandapam. The out side pillars out side the sanctum sanctorum raises up to 2^nd tier. Round shaped Sanctum sanctorum also raised up to 2^nd tier bhoomi desam.  The santharam is in between Pakya bitti and Anthara bitti. Since the roof is flat ( not curved ), the santhara is considered as alintham.

There might be 8 Parivara shrines around the main temple.  They are constructed with stone and vimana is of vrutha / vesara style. One of the sub shrine might have been dedicated for saptamatrikas.  Hamsa mala is seen in the parivara shrine kapothas.

The architectural style of this temple is followed similar to Pallava, Badami Chalukyas and before early Chozhas style of architecture.

HISTORY AND INSCRIPTIONS

The inscription below the north side dwarapalaka mentions that this temple was originally constructed by a small regional Muththaraiyar king  Saththam Bhoothi alias Ilangovathi Araiyan, under Pallavas, in 9^th  Century and after it collapsed due to rain, the same was re-constructed by Mallan Vidhuman also known as Thennavan Tamizh thiraiyan.  The inscription reads as..

ஸ்வஸ்திஸ்ரீ சாத்தம் பூதியான

இளங்கோவதி அரையன் எடுப்பித்த கற்றளி

மழை இடிந்தழிய மல்லன் விதுமன்

ஆயின தென்னவன் தமிழதிரையன் புதுக்கு”

The Original temple name was not known and the present name is known from the Sundarapandian's inscription on the rock as “Vijayalaya Chozhiswaram”. Might have obtained from Chozha King Vijayalayan.

PAZHIYILI ESWARAM.

This rock cut cave shrine was excavated on the ( mel hill ) east side of the hill facing east. The remains of the mandapam, Dwarapalakas, Nandi are in front of the cave. In the sanctum, a damaged flat Shiva Linga is on a square avudayar carved out of mother rock.

  

HISTORY & INSCRIPTIONS

From inscription, the cave was excavated during 9^th Century ( 872 CE ) the Pallava King Nirupathungavarman’s  7^th year rule, ( Some claims as Nandivarman-III.. ?) by the Vidael Viduku Muththaraiyan’s son Saththam Pazhiyili. Santham Pazhiyili’s daughter and Meenavan Tamil Athirayan alias Vasan Anandhan’s wife Pazhiyili Siriyanangai, constructed the front mandapa, Nandi, Kottil / kottakai / shed, Balipeedam. Savainjathan, who belongs to Peruvilaththoor of Annal Vayil kootram donated a land to Naivedyam to this temple. A land was purchased and handed over to Uruthiran Theyupukki, after exempting the Taxes, by Chiriya Nangai and to pay 25 kalanju gold as a penalty, if default occurs.

PATHINEN BHOOMI VINNAGARAM

In front of Pazhiyili Eswaram sannidhi there are 12 Vishnu statues carved out of mother rock, 6 on each side. Shiva Temple’s artha mandapam acts as a main shrine for this Vishnu shrine. The mandapam is supported by 2 pillars and 2 pilasters. Out of 12 Vishnu sculptures 10 are facing east and 2 are facing South and North. All the 12 Vishnu sculptures are similar in appearance and size. The remains of the base of the Mandapam, Sukhasana Shiva, Saptamatrikas, Veena Dakshinamurthy, Vinayagar, Dwarapalaka are in front of the Rock cut cave. The Shiva Linga inside the sanctum is found in damaged condition.

HISTORY AND INSCRIPTIONS

As per the iconography the experts of the opinion these Vishnu’s sculptures may belong to 9^th or 10^th century. The Sundarapandiyan’s ( 1227 AD ) 12^th year rule inscription found on the rock records that this Vishnu’s shrine as “Pathinen Bhoomi Vinnagaram”. The inscription also records the Tax to be paid by the Newly wedded couple’s parents to the temple. The bride’s Father & Mother has to pay 120 Kidai kasu and 100 Aadai Kasu. The bridegroom’s father and mother has to pay 100 Kidai kasu and 80 aadaikasu. In this Aadai kasu means the amount to be paid in lieu of Goats / Sheep. Kidai kasu means one type of Tax levied.

The mandapa base also has the Kulothunga Chozha’s ( 1115 CE ), 45^th year rule. The inscription mentions that this Village’s name as “Thelingakulakalapuram” in Annal Vayil kootram of Irattappadi Chozhavala Nadu. This rock cut cave was called as Thirumer Kovil and Lord Shiva was called as “Thirumanickathalwar”. In addition to this the Telugukulakalapura merchant Devan Periyan alias Mudi konda Chozha Telungaraiyan donated a land  for thirupadi Matru ( Nivandam ) after reforming the Devaneri land also called as Kudikadu in to cultivable land as Kudi neenka Devadhanam. The paddy yielded can be used by the donor after giving 75 kalam paddy/ year to this temple was allowed by the Villagers ( Oorar ). Also the inscription records the establishment of Alwar Nandhavanam also called as Uchilanjunai.  

PATHINEN BHOOMI VINNAGARAM FRONT MANDAPAM BASE

The rock cut cave front Mandapam base is in front of the Vijayalaya Chozheeswaram. The Base is about 1.78 meters high from the ground level with 8 steps. The round Kumuda has the inscriptions. In the open mandapa base Sculptures of Sukhasana Shiva, Saptamatrikas in two panels, Veenathara Dakshinamurthy, Vinayagar, Dwarapalakas, Elephants and Makara thorana. The mandapa base is with Yazhi vari & the images of Yazhi, Elephant, Simha, purusha mrugam etc,.Mahara thundam is at the corners. Saththam Pazhiyili’s daughter and Minavan Tamizh Athiraiyan Vaalan Anantha’s wife Pazhiyili Chiriya Nangai constructed the front Mandapam, Nandi and balipeedam.

LEGENDS

It is believed that, when, Hanuman was carrying the Sanjeevini Hill from north to save the life of soldiers and Lakshmana during the war between Rama and Ravana, Nine pieces were fallen down and formed these 9 hills.

In Another legend Naradar, came and stayed here for some time. Hence this place was called as Nardar Malai and the same has got corrupted to the present name of Narthamalai.

JWARAHARESWARAR ROCK CUT CAVE TEMPLE

This rock cut cave is on the 1/3 height of the Narthamalai. This cave temple was called locally as Sunaiyandar Koil. The cave measures 7’ x 9’ x 8 feet. Moolavar Shiva linga on a square avudayar was scooped from the mother rock / Thaiparai.  Usually this cave will be completely submerged in water. The water was drained after 162 years, on 4^th January, 2019 and Lord Shiva gave darshan on a pradosham day. Experts are of the opinion that this Rock cut cave temple was excavated during Mutharaiyar period, under Pallavars Dynasty.

A 16^th to 17^th Century inscription inscribed just above the cave  with symbols of Trishul and Mazhu, signifies that the cave is meant for Lord Shiva. The inscription reads as… 

“ஸ்வஸ்திஸ்ரீ சாலிவாகன சகாப்தம் 1781 கலியப்தம் 4958 இதன்மேல் செல்லா நின்ற பிங்கள நாம சம்வத்சரம் வெசாக மாசம் 4(ஆம் நாள்) 1857ம் வருஷம் மே மாதம் 14 இந்திர வம்ச ஜலதி சங்கரனான ப்ரகதாம்பாதாச ராஜா விஜயராய ரகுநாத தொண்டைமானார் பஹதூரவர்கள் பௌத்ரன் பிரகதாம்பாதாச யெக்சல்லன்சி ராஜா ரகுநாத தொண்டைமானார் பகதூரவர்கள் புத்திரன் பிரகதாம்பாதாச ஸ்ரீசிவராமஸ்வாமிதாச யெக்சல்லன்சி ராஜா ராமச்சந்திர தொண்டைமான் பகதூரவர்களும் மேற்படியார் துவிதிய பாரியையாகிய ஜானகி பாயிஸாப்பு அவர்களும் சத்குரு ஸ்ரீசிவராமஸ்வாமி அவர்களுடைய கிருபா கடாக்ஷ பலத்தினால் இந்த தலவர சிங்கமெங்குர தீர்த்தத்தை முழுவதும் இறைத்து நிர்மால்யம் செய்வித்து யிந்த தீர்த்தத்தில் கிருகாவாசியாய் இருக்கிற ஜ்வரஹரேஸ்வரரெங்குற மூலலிங்கத்துக்கு அபிஷேகம் பூஜா நேவேத்தியம் முதலானது நடம்பி வைத்து ஸ்ரீசிவராமஸ்வாமி அவர்கள் முன்னுக்கு தெர்சனம் செய்தார்கள்”

As per the inscription, on 14^th May 1857, Pudukkottai King Raja Ramachandra Thondaiman came to this place along with his second wife Janaki. During that time the complete water was drained out in the “Thalavara Singam” sunai and worshiped Lord Shiva Jwarahareswarar, through his Kula Guru Sivarama Swamy.

In addition to the above a new 13^th Century inscription was also found. The inscription reads as “keezhangkarayan Siva poojai”.    

HOW TO REACH:

This Narthamalai, is just a KM from Kadambar malai, Kadambar Koil, 9 KM from Keeranur,  19 KM from Pudukkottai, 41 KM from Tiruchirappalli and 363 KM from Chennai.

Nearest Railway station is Keeranur and Junction is Tiruchirappalli

LOCATION OF THE TEMPLE : CLICK HERE

Painting in the ardha mandapam 

Painting in the ardha mandapam 

Painting in the ardha mandapam 

Painting in the ardha mandapam 

Painting in the ardha mandapam 

Painting in the ardha mandapam 

Painting in the ardha mandapam 

Eri Kalvettu

---OM SHIVAYA NAMA---