The
Visit to this Shri Chennakeshava Swami Temple at Belur, in Karnataka, was a
part of “Karnataka State, Hoysala Period Shiva and temple’s visit”- between 28th
- 30th July 2023, organised by தொண்டை மண்டல வரலாற்று ஆய்வு சங்கம் "திருக்கச்சி" FB
Group. This Chennakesava Swami temple is one
of the living temples built during Hoysala Dynasty period. This is one of the
Pilgrimage centre for the Vaishnava sect. This place was also called as
Beluhur. This place was called as Velapur, Velur and Belahur during, during
Hoysala’s period. The same was got corrupted to the present name of Belur. This
temple is built on the banks the Yagachi River. Included in the tentative list of world Heritage site of UNESCO. Added as 42nd UNESCO Heritage site in 2023.
Moolavar : Sri Chennakesva
Swami
Consort : Shri
Somanayaki
Some of the salient features of this temple are…..
The temple is facing east with a 5 tier Rajagopuram built latter.
A Dwajasthambam, Garudan and balipeedam are after the Rajagopuram entrance.
Dwarapalakas Jaya & Vijaya are at the entrance of sanctum sanctorum. A
Chitra thorana with Lakshmi Narayan is on the top of the entrance to Sanctum
sanctorum. In the sanctum Sanctorum Vijaya Narayana blesses as Keshava. The
Moolavar Keshava is about 6 feet tall on a 3 feet pedestal with a halo in the
form of circular. Keshava is with 4 hands, the upper hands are holding Sankha
& Chakra and lower hands are holding Gada and Lotus flower. The ten avatar
reliefs are on the halo.
The temple Complex consists of
Ramanujar Sannidhi, Yoga Narasimha, Vedanta desika, Alwars, Pranavasu
Devaru, Kalinga Narthanar, Lakshmi Narasimha swami, Mukti prcha devaru, Rama
Temple, Sri kappe Chennigaraya temple, Sri Somanayaki Temple, Vahana mandapa,
Kalyana mandapam, Sri Veeranarayana Temple, Andal Ranganayaki temple, Deepa sthamba,
A 4 pillar mandapam, Madapalli and a Temple Tank – Kalyani- Vasudeva-Sarovar (
on the north east corner ).
ARCHITECTURE
The total temple was built with chloritic schist, more commonly
known as soapstone. This temple is an architectural marvel of Hoysala dynasty
with beautiful intricately carved Sculptures, bas reliefs, etc, which, depicts
scenes from daily life, music, dance, dancers, the ornaments and narrate scenes
from the life of Vishnu and his incarnations and the epics, Ramayana,
Mahabharata and Vaishnava Puranas.
Even though the main temple is dedicated to Maha Vishnu as
Chennakeshava Swami, apart from Vaishnavism, the sculptures contains the
Shaivism, Shaktism and few Jainism & Buddhism also. The miniature shrines
at the entrance of the hall are actually a type of nagara / North Indian style
vimanas, in the form of curvilinear in shape. This shape of vimanam is quite
uncommon in Dravidian architecture.
The Chennakeshava
temple.... also called as Kesava Temple is
in the middle of the temple complex. The temple consists of sanctum sanctorum,
vestibule, ardha mandapam and a maha mandapam/ Nava ranga mandapam. On the east
side, the Mukha mandapam and maha mandapam are interconnected through a
passage. In addition to this there are two entrances to the maha mandapam on
the south and north side. The mandapa pillars are intricately carved. The
sanctum Sanctorum is on a raised jagathi / platform also called as Upa peedam
in Dravidian architecture. The upapeedam / jagathy and Sanctum sanctorum are constructed
in the form of Stellate / star shaped. The adhishtanam is with row of reliefs
like, elephants, floral design, apsaras, ladies / madanikas in different
postures & expressions, dancing ladies, etc. The Sanctum sanctorum is with
koshtas.
Raised
on platform the temple made of soapstone consists of a garbhagriha (sanctum) a
sukhanasa ( vestibule ) and a navaranga. It is particularly noteworthy that
ground plan of the garbhagriha is star-shaped, the navaranga pavilion is a
large hall with beautifully designed lathe turned and polished pillars and
ceiling. Navaranga has entrances on the east south at north.
Narasimha,
mohini, Lakshmi pillar are very attractive. Among the pillars of navaranga the
mohini pillar is one of the finest specimens, the pillar is cut vertically on a
sixteen pointed star plan. It is decorated with a narrow band of filigree work.
A creeper scroll and figures inset in convolutions. The eastern face of the
pillar has a large beautifully carved image of Vishnu as mohini exceedingly
graceful with a chauri bearer and Garuda on the other. Narasimha Pillar, which is carved with miniature bull / rishabam reliefs from top to bottom. It was told that this pillar used to rotate earlier and not now. The central square of
the navaranga has four pillars decorated with bracket figures atop these
bracket figures are remarkably of superior workmanship in conception the door
jambs of the sukhanasa and sanctum sanctorum / garbhagriha carry across
intricately carved Makara toranas.
On
the exterior…. The walls have a jagati platform sculptured with horizontal row
of friezes comprising elephants. Cornice surmounted by simhalatas or lions, scroll
work, small female figure in ornamental niches, etc. The walls of the front
part of navaranga have perforated screen of later period surmounted by the
eaves. These screens / jalas are sculptured with puranic scenes and durbar
scene of king Vishnuvardhana and Ballala-II., ( 1173-1220 CE ) the pillars on either side of these have
bracket figures of superb workmanship on their capitals in all 42 in number.
They are popularly called as madanika" or shilabalika images they are
finely proportioned and exceedingly ornamented. Yet highly expressive. These
bracket figures are popularly known as Darpanasundari. Sukhabhashini, monkey
molesting the lady, huntress, natya mohini, etc most of these images have
inscriptions on the pedestal mentioning the names of the sculptors who carved
them.
The
outer face of the walls of the garbhagriha and the antarala have been adorned
with beautiful images of deities 80 in number of which only 19 are goddesses,
the sculptural depictions of Vishnu as Lakshminarayana, Vamana, Narasimha, Varaha,
Balarama and Shiva as Andhakasura, Gajasura / Gaja Samhara Moorthy, Harihara, Nataraja,
etc., Surya, Lakshmi, Durga, Kali, Mahishasuramardini, Bhairava, Brama, Rati-Manmata
could be considered as the best representations of the hoysala sculptural art attached
to the outer wall of the garbhagriha are three elegantly executed chariot like
niches in two tiers enshrining Vishnu images facing the cardinal points. The
high platform with pradakshina patha has flight of steps on east, north and
south flanked by a miniature shrine on either side.
These madanikas are in miniature sizes displaying the feminine
features. There are 42 Madanika’s carved on soap stone and are placed at
several parts of the Chennakeshava Temple. Every madanika is carved to a minute
detail in different natya postures. All these figures are said to be inspired
by the beauty of Queen Shantala Devi, wife of king Vishnuvardhana and believed to
be a model for one of the sculptures in the Navaranga – Darpana Sundari (Lady
with mirror). The other famous Madanikas are, The lady with parrot, Bhasmasura
Mohini and the huntress. Ornaments worn by each of these shilabalike’s can
actually be rotated (3D structures) showing the amount of stone mastery the
sculptors possessed.
Shiva..?
Sri kappe Chennigaraya temple.... was constructed similar to kesava Temple, with out mukha mandapam. The maha mandapam is with two entrances from east and north sides. The Sanctum sanctorum is on a raised jagathi / platform. The sanctum Sanctorum is of Stellate / star form. There is a pyramidal vimanam is on the sanctum sanctorum.
There is an interesting legend behind making of the Idol Kappechennigaraya.
Jakanna, the main sculptor from Kaikala village, came to Belur and made the
Idol of Keshava. On seeing the beautiful image, Dakanna another young sculptor
told that there is a defect in the idol. Jakanna didn’t accept the same and
told that if the defect is proved he will cut off his right hand. An
examination was conducted in front of senior sculptors and country men. Dakanna applied sandal paste allover the body
of the idol. The sandal paste dried after some time except on stomach naval
portion and remained wet. As per the order of senior sculptors the wet portion
was broke open. Immediately, water with a frog / therai came out. The senior
sculptors praised the knowledge of Dakanna. Before the others came to normal,
Jakanna cuts off his right hand with sword. Latter Jakanna came to know that
Dakanna was his own son. The hand grew normal with the grace of Keshava Perumal.
Since kappe means frog in kannada language was found in the Keshava idol, the idol was called as
Kappechennigaraya and installed with inscription of Queen’s name Shantala Devi.
Latter the same was replaced with a new
one, but the name continued remained till date.
The Vira Narayana Temple... is just on the back side of the Kesava temple. This temple belongs to 12th Century. The temple is with Sanctum sanctorum, vestibule and Navaranga mandapam. The walls of the temple are decorated reliefs like Vishnu, Shiva, Brahma, Bhairava, Lakshmi, Parvati, Saraswati and others. Some of the panels are with the reliefs depicting the epic Ramayana and Mahabharata story.
Somanayagi Temple... is dedicated to Maha Lakshmi. Even though the temple was built during Vijayanagara, which was destroyed during Muslims invasion.
The Andal temple...., also called Ranganayaki Temple, is on the northwest of the Kesava temple, built during Vijayanagara period. The sanctum sanctorum walls are decorated with 31 large images of deities of Vaishnavism, Shaivism and Shaktism. In addition to this it also has intricately carved Venugopala, Mohini and Lakshmi, as well as bas-reliefs depicting the legends of epic Ramayana, Mahabharata and Puranas.
HISTORY AND
INSCRIPTIONS
The Hoysala King Vishnuvardhana, after he followed the
Vaishnavism constructed this temple as per the instruction of the great saint Ramanuja in 1117 CE. An inscription on the pedestal of Vijayanarayana
image states that the image was caused to be made by king Vishnu ( Vishnuvardhana ). The
temple was called as Vijayanarayana Swamy Temple. Even-though the temple was
consecrated in 1117 CE, construction of other shrines and Vimanas continued by
Narasimha-I, Veera Ballala – II, and completed by Veera Narasimha-II in1219 CE.
It took almost 103 years to complete the temple.
Kappechennigaraya temple… when king Vishnuvardhana
got the keshava temple constructed, Santala Devi, his chief queen made her
contribution by causing an other Keshava temple to be built to the south of
main temple similar in form to it which is popular as Kappechennigaraya temple.
Kappechennigaraya image which is exactly like that of the keshava in the main
shrine. Though small in size bears the name of the queen on the pedestal.
There are about 118 inscriptions recorded from this temple,
covering the period from 1117 CE to 18th Century. These inscriptions
records the endowments established in this temple, the sculptors who are
responsible for the construction of this temple and the renovations carried
out.
The Vishnuvardhana’s inscription records that this temple was
constructed with the wealth, earned through his sword. Also it records that
this temple was constructed to mark the liberation of Hoysalas from Chalukyas.
He also constructed Chenna Kesava and Lakshmi Narayanar temples in the same
complex. Chennakesava Perumal temple was constructed by his wife and
Queen Shantala Devi.
In 1298 CE, the Vimanam wood work had rotted and fallen and was
repaired, pillars were erected to support it. The temple suffered a heavy
damage at the time of the Muslims invasion, in 1310 CE. The Vimana above the
sanctum sanctorum was rectified more than twice in. After collapse of the
Vimana above the Sanctum Sanctorum in 19th Century, the same was not
reconstructed. The temple was kept closed till the time of Harihara -II of
Vijayanagara King. In 1387 CE, the broken kalasa on the top of the Vimana was
restored with gold plated kalasas. In 1397 CE, the gopuram over the entrance,
which was burnt by the Muslim army of Kalburga under Ganga-Salar, was re-built
with 5 talas.
Ballala-II period ( 1175 CE ) inscription records the
construction of Madapalli, a grain storage room and Temple tank.
The Veera Ballala-III’s period ( 1292 – 1342 CE ), inscription records the construction of
Compound wall with an entrance gate way
and jala work to cover the open mandapam by Somayya danayaka
The
other temples which are added in the later period with in the complex are Veera
Narayana, Saumyanayaki, Andal the goddess and Alwars the Vaishnava saint Ramanuja. The whole complex is enclosed by a
high raised wall with a main towered entrance on the east, added in 1397 CE. Undoubtedly,
the Kesaava temple of the hoysala style occupies a distinct place amongst the architectural
wonder of india. There is a strong tradition and popular belief in this region that
the architect of this temple is Jakanachari about whom is an interesting story
for which so far no historic evidence has been found. Be that as it may, the
temple may be said to be sculptural poetry immortalising the achievements
variously of Vishnuvardhana and the sculptors like Dasoja, Chavana his son, Chikka
Hampa, Malliyana, Eechana Maloja, Kenchamalliyanna, Malla and Hagoja who
bestowed their best in creating this masterpiece.
After 1935, Temple was repaired by the Mysore Government and
Wodeyar Kings. Ramanuja, Garuda sannidhis are added and rebuilding of
Chennigaraya temple was carried out Latter.
Sculptors name
LEGENDS
As per the legend, during the construction of this temple under the guidance of Sri Ramanujar, a friend of Vishnuvardhana's daughter was killed and buried the Thulasi madam to destroy its sanctity.
In Another legend, Vishnuvardhana killed his own son who misbehaved with a friend of Vishnuvardhana's daughter. And it was told that the image given below belongs to the legend.
Ref:
3. Display board installed at the entrance of the temple.
HOW TO REACH
This Keshava Temple is about 750 meters from Belur Bus stand, 17
KM from Halebeedu, 26 KM from Chikkamagaluru, 40 KM from Hassan, 90 KM from
Shravanabelagola, 150 KM from Mysuru / Mysore and 220 KM from Bangaluru / Bangalore.
Nearest railway station is
Chikkamagaluru or Hassan.
LOCATION OF THE
TEMPLE : CLICK HERE
Ceiling Dome sculpture - Narasimha
Lakshmi Narayana & Garuda at the base
Jala Images ( Below )
Jala 
Hunters carry the deer captured
Rajagopuram, Dwajasthamba & Garudan
Deeapa Sthamba
--- OM SHIVAYA NAMA ---
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