Friday, 17 July 2020

Vilvanatheswarar Temple / Sri Vilvanatheswarar Temple / Vilwanatheswarar Temple, Thiruvalam / Tiruvalam -திருவலம் – Vellore District, Tamil Nadu.


Now this place is called as Thiruvalam – திருவலம். This is the 10th Devaram Paadal Petra Shiva Sthalam on the banks of River Ponnai / Bahuda River ( There is also another name “neevaa  நீ வா ) ” to this river – The river changed it's direction and came nearer, when Lord Shiva asked ) in Thondai Nadu. Thirugnanasambandar has sung hymns in praise of Lord Shiva of this temple.

எரித்தவன் முப்புரம் எரியின் மூழ்கத்
தரித்தவன் கங்கையைத் தாழ்சடைமேல்
விரித்தவன் வேதங்கள் வேறுவேறு
தெரித்தவன் உறைவிடம் திருவல்லமே.
    
அன்றிய அமணர்கள் சாக்கியயர்கள்
குன்றிய அறிவுரை கூறாவண்ணம்
வென்றவன் புலன்ஐந்தும் விளங்க எங்கும்
சென்றவன் உறைவிடம் திருவல்லமே
    
கற்றவர் திருவல்லம் கண்டு சென்று
நற்றமிழ் ஞானசம் பந்தன் சொன்ன
குற்றமில் செந்தமிழ் கூறவல்லார்
பற்றுவர் ஈசன்பொற் பாதங்களே
.... திருஞானசம்பந்தர் தேவாரம்

Moolavar  : Sri Vilvanatheeswarar, Sri Vallanathar
Consort        : Sri Thanumathyambal, Sri Vallambigai.


Some of the salient features of this temple are…….
The temple is facing east with an entrance arch on the south side.  The First level Rajagopuram is of 5 tiers and the second level Rajagopuram is of 3 tiers. The Gowri Theertha kulam with neerazhi mandapam  is on the right side between 1st and 2nd level Rajagopurams. At the 2nd level Rajagopuram, on both side  murtis of Valampuri Vinayagar and Aathmalingeswarar. Immediately after the 2nd level Rajagopuram Kalabhairava on the right.

In the outer prakaram ( 100 pillar mandapam ) sannadhi for Kasi Viswanathar, Chandramouleeswarar, Annamalaiyar, SadhaShiva, Anandhar, Neelakandar, Ambikeswarar, 1008 Mahalingam / Sahasra Lingam, Sri Valli Devasena Subramaniar Gurueswarar, Vishnueswarar, VidhAtharaeswarar, 1300 years old Mango tree and Kani Vangiya Vinayagar கனி வாங்கிய விநாயகர் ). Also separate temples for Adhi Vilvanathar ( with Chozha period inscriptions all around ) and Sundareswarar with Meenakshi.

Adhi Vilavanathar shrine
100 pillar mandapam

In Mukha mandapam, Balipeedam Dwajasthambam, Adhikara Nandhi/ Rishabam, Big Stucco Rishabam ( Installed by Sri La Sri Sivananda Mouna Swamigal ), Mouna Swamigal Murti, Navagrahas. Adhikara nandhi with balipeedam, in the inner prakaram are facing east along with moolavar. There is also a special feature about the Gopuram of Saba Mandapam. The Stucco images of 27 Nakshatras are around the gopuram.

27 Nakshathras
Navagrahas with Stucco Rishabam

In the inner prakaram Idols /murtis of  Brahmi, Vishnu, 63var ( in ஐம்பொன் - Impon and stone – installed in 2 rows ), Chandikeswarar and Nagar.

Nayanmars

The moolavar is of swayambhu and little inclined to north looks majestic. In koshtam, Vinayagar, Dakshinamurthy, Vishnu, Brahma and Durgai ( Not standing on mahishasuran ).

In the artha mandapam Vishnu, Urchavars ( the beauty of Sakthi and Pichadanar / Bhiksahadanar are to be seen ), Chandrasekarar. Standing in one place we can have the darshan of Lord Shiva and Vishnu.

The Dwarapalakas are not a regular murtis. The left side Dwarapalaka  is some what, a regular with usual mudra ( The index finger – susi ). The right side dwarapalaka  is like dancing with a beautiful smile on his face. ( Thanks to the Sivachariyar and his son, who gave permission to take photographs of Dwarapalakas ).

Dwarapalakas

Ambal Sri Thanumathyambal is in a separate Temple in the outer prakaram and she is also called as "Theekali Ambal" with anger/ ukram on her face. It is believed that Adhi Shankara had changed the anger in to a peace/ Shantham.   In koshtam Vinayagar, Annapoorani, Ambal with Abayavaram and Durgai.

On the left, Temple for Sri Rajarajeswari.  Also there is a copper plate inscription installed by Sri la Sri Sivanatha Mouna Swamigal (The inscription details are posted seperately ). Sri la Sri Sivananda mouna Swamigal jeeva samadhi is on the left side of Temple arch.  He had done lot of thirupani to this temple. He had cured many deceases through vibhuti and vilva / Bilva leaves. He spent all the donations for the thirupani. ( A copper plate with inscriptions can be seen  one left side near Sri Ambikeswari samedha Sri Raja Rajeswarar temple between the two Rajagopurams ).

Arunagirinathar has sung hymns in praise of Lord Murugan of this Temple in his Thiruppugazh.

நசையொடு தொலுந் தசைதுறு நீரும்
        நடுநடு வேயென்                                            புறுகீலும்
        நலமுறு வேயொன் றிடஇரு கால்நன்
        றுறநடை யாருங்                                          குடலூடே
விசையுறு காலம் புலனெறி யேவெங்
        கனலுயிர் வேழந்                                          திரியாதே
        விழுமடி யார்முன் பழுதற வேள்கந்
        தனுமென வோதும்                                       விறல்தாராய்
இசையுற வேயன் றசைவற வூதும்
        எழிலறி வேழம்                                             எனையாளென்
        றிடர்கொடு மூலந் தொடர்வுட னோதும்
இடமிமை யாமுன்                                               வருமாயன்
        திசைமுக னாருந் திசைபுவி வானுந்
        திரிதர வாழுஞ்                                              சிவன் மூதூர்
தெரிவையர் தாம் வந் தருநட மாடுந்
        திருவுலமேவும்                                              பெருமானே   

Beautifully engraved stone bowl with Girls Kolattam

HISTORY AN INSCRIPTIONS
The temple has lot of Tamil  inscriptions. The inscriptions belongs to Koprakesari Rajendra Chozhan, Ko Rajakesarivarman Raja mahendran, Kulothunga–I, Kulothunga –III., Chozha Booban’s son Veerasamban  and many other king’s period inscriptions are found. As per the inscriptions this place was called as Theekali Vallam  during Rajaraja Chozhan ( 991 CE ) period, as Thiruvalam during Arunagirinathar’s Thiruppugazh period and as Vanapuram during Nandhivarman period ( 793 CE). The Lord Shiva is called in different names. Nandhivarma Pallavan-III ( 863 CE ) period as Theekali Vallamudaya Parameswarar, Mahavali Vaana bana Raja ( Vikramathiya I) ( 888 CE ) period as Theekkali Perumanadikal,  Rajaraja Chozhan - I ( 991 CE ) period as Thirutheekkali Alwar, Rajendra Chozhan (1015 CE ) period as Thiruvallamudayar, Vikarama Chozhan (1123 CE ) period as Thiruvallamudaya Mahadevar and Kulothunga Chozhan III (1212 CE ) period  as Thiruvallamudaya Naayanar.

The Nandhivarman –II, (793 CE ) inscription records that during Mavali Vanavarayar’s rule a gold smith called Aridiran son of Madan donated land to this temple and the same was confirmed by Mavali Vanavarayar during personal visit.

NandhiVarman-III ( 863 CE ) period inscription records that at the request of Mavali Vanarayan alias Vikramaditta Vanavarayan, the clubbing of Villages Aimbuni, Vilattur and Amarunri to fom a single Village called Videlvidugu Vikramaditta Chaturvedimangalam and donated to this temple. The Village saba has to pay 2000 kadi of paddy and 20 kalanju gold, which was paid earlier by the village Amarunri mangalam, to this god Paramesvara of Tikkali-vallam. From the 2000 Kadi paddy received, 600 kadi for food offering, 500 Kadi for the Siva Brahmins, who offer worship, 500 kadi  for the musicians ( drums etc)during sri-bali ceremony, and 400 kadi paddy to be paid to different service men who includes those picking of flowers, for temple garlands, sing tiruppadiyam (hymns). The gold to be utilized for the burning of perpetual lamps, anointment, incense and repairs.

Nandivarman –III ( 863 CE ) period another inscription records the gift of four patti land by Vinaiyadityan, son of Monaiyar from Village Ilaiyanur in Ilaiyanur Nadu to god Tikkaliyadigal, to provide rice for naivedyam and one alakku ghee as olukkavi offerings and tondaopu for worship. The land was under the care of 4 persons.

Rajaraja Chozha –I’s 4th year reign inscription ( 299 of 1897) records the construction of Rajarajeswarar sanctum sanctorum and burning of 2 perpetual lamps 2000 kuzhi land was donated by an official called Eerayiravan Pallavarayan.  

Rajendra Chozha –I’s ( 1050-62 CE ), 3rd year reign inscription ( 75 of 1889 ) records the gift of 25 Kalanju gold from an official under him and the same was given to Dikshitar / priest.  Another inscription  ( 92 of 1889 ) of the same period Vanapura land 1000 kuzhi  was sold to Vaithumba Somanathan and the same was gifted to this temple.

KoRajakesari Varman-I’s 7th year reign inscription ( 8A of 1890 ) records the  endowment of making Ambal’s idol ( metal ? ) and burning of perpetual lamps by a Brahmin and for the same 1700 kuzhi land, which was purchased from Thooinattu manthiram sabha. The same King’s 16th year reign inscriptions ( 11 of 1890 ) records the sale of 700 kuzhi land to Shankaradevan and the same was gifted to this temple.

Korajakesari Varman Raja Raja’s 20th year reign inscription (1415 of 1890 ) records the donation of 90 goats and 3rd year reign inscription  records the income from the Village  Kukkanur of Thooi Nadu  to this temple.  

Vanaraya’s period Saka 810, ie 888 CE inscription (1B of 1890 ) records the A Parpanan ( Brahmin ?) of Edkur Village, received 25 Kalanju gold. The interest earned was spent for burning of perpetual lamp.

Vijayakanda Gopalan’s 3rd year reign inscription records ( 79 of 1889 ), Azhakiya Pallavan period Rajarajan-III Nilamaniyakarar ( a village official ) exempted the tax of 1.16 %.

Inscriptions on the adhistanam
Vijayanagara Dynasty emblem- a proof of their contribution

LEGENDS
It is believed that the Vinayagar has got the Mango fruit after circumambulating Lord Shiva and Parvati in this temple, hence he is called a “Kani Vangiya Vinayagar கனி வாங்கிய விநாயகர் )“ and Vinayagar is facing north. Hence the place is also called as Thiruvalam. Sri Vinayagar is sitting on his vahana –moonchuru/ mooshika holding mango in the right hand, The bas-reliefs associated with the history of this temple are highlighted in the front mandapa pillar during the recent renovation. 

The Rishaba in the inner prakara and Stucco Rishaba are facing the same direction as moolavar of Sri Vilvanatheswarar Temple of Thiruvalam. There is an interesting legend behind this. The Gurukkal who brought water to Shiva’s abhishekam from this Kanjanagiri - the hill is just opposite to Sri Vilvanatheswarar Temple, was obstructed by Kanjan, a Demon. When the same was reported to Shiva, Shiva advised Rishabam to take care of the Gurukkal. Rishabam, killed the demon, tored the demon in to pieces and throw the pieces of the body around the Hill. The Village names are in the names of the Demon’s parts of the body.   Also the Rishaba at the temple faces the Hill, to watch the demon, shouldn’t come again. Hence the Rishabas are facing east. This Sthala puranam in Stucco is in the Mukha Mandapam and there is bas-relief carved on the mandapam pillar also.

                                    Sthalapurana bas-reliefs
Sthala puranam bas-reliefs
Rishabam kills the demon - the sthala puranam
Sthala puranam bas-reliefs- The priests are carrying water for Moolavar abhishekam
The Rishabam - looking opposite direction 
A Demon related to sthala puranam

THE TEMPLE TIMINGS :
The temple will be kept open between 06.00 Hrs to 12.00 Hrs and 16.00 Hrs to 20.00 Hrs.

CONTACT DETAILS.
For pooja and other details the Sivachariyar  Umapathi can be contacted over his land line 0416 – 2236088 and mobile 9894922166.
Also Mr Sivan 9245446956 can be contacted over his mobile.

HOW TO REACH:
From Arcot town bus is available to Thiruvalam.
The place Thiruvalam is on the bus route Chennai to Chittoor ( Route No 144 ), after Ranipet. Alternatively From Chennai to Vellore get down at Muthukadai after Walaja and catch a bus to Thiruvalam.
Thiruvalam is 14 KM from Arcot,  18 KM from Katpadi, 20 KM from Vellore, 59 KM from Arakkonam and 120 KM from Chennai.
The nearest railway Junction is Katpadi.

LOCATION OF THE TEMPLE : CLICK HERE






Stucco Rishabam

Kannappa nayanar puranam
Arjunan fights with Lord Shiva 
Narasimhar and Pichadanar
Gandaberunda - an emblem of Hoysalas
Gangalar
Temple Chariot
Nandi Deva playing Mridangam - a relief of the Chariot
Gangalar
---OM SHIVAYA NAMA---

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